Attention Disco Owners.

[Big Sandy]

There is an article section for Discoveries!

Currently it is sitting empty, and it could do with some filling up. I rarely get to work on Discoveries myself, so I am not likely to get the chance to do an article about them.

SO, if any of you fancy doing an article about a job you have done on your Discovery (even changing the oils, sorting the brakes, fitting extra lights.....anything like that) why not make an article of it? If you have anything that you think others would be interested in, why not give it a go? Remember, even if it is something you think is really simple, and that everybody should know, there will most likely still be folk that don't know how to do it!

If you are feeling inspired, send me, Lighting90 or Newsreader a PM, and we can give you some pointers on how to insert photos in the article (for example) OR simply post your article up in the articles section, and we will check it over and make it 'go live' for you (New articles get placed in a post moderation queue, so it will vanish as soon as you hit the 'post new thread' button.)

Over to you folks!

[graham]

As Sandy says if your doing a job on your Disco take some photos and notes on how you did it, also how you diagnosed the problem in the first place.
Most of us are DIY mechanics so don't be afraid of submiitting an article. Diction and spelling will be checked by our resident proof readers, I get 2/10 see me :D

The Disco starting problems sticky needs to be made into an article, we need photos of the components, spider, injector return pipes, fuel cut off valve, dash removal (spider), starter motor and bushes etc etc.
Thanks to all for the imput in the thread. :)

[Ogbyte]

will try and get something done for replacing the window riser mechanism on a Disco 300 ES when the weather brightens up again. Already done it once, but the new one has now failed.

Gary

[Gordon_Macaulay]

Hi Gary,

I've got to replace both side window lifters on my Discovery 300tdi, soon as money and time allow. I've already looked at them and as on many "Rovers" they've just folded!! Before I fit the replacements I shall do what I did to ones on a Rover 600 some years back; I spot welded a plate on the back of the arms where they are folded for strenth soon as I do mine I'll photograph them and post it, maybe as an artical. One bit of advice to all owners; lubricate the window channels with a silicon spray after every car wash.

Regards, Gordon

[graham]

Nice one will be good to have an article on it. :)

[freelanderPX54]

Here http://rides.webshots.com/album/560965843pskmVW is a link to the photos I took whilst sorting out my rear sunroof. My advice is that when you try to sort out your sunroof is to remove it completely and fill the hole with some ply, no I didn't mean to type that:D

Once the sunroof is removed (you can pull the headlining down to get at it), remove the glass and remove the mechanism from the frame. Work on one side at a time and make sure that everything is cleaned fully and greased on assembly. The reason behind doing one side at a time is that when you have bits left over, you can see where they belong :rolleyes:

You can use a torx bit to operate the sunroof whilst it is on the bench. I found that I needed to adjust the channels with a sharp chisel to ensure that the mechanism worked properly. If you have an electric sunroof, don't forget to set the motor to the timing marks.

When you refit the sunroof, use a generous bead of clear silicone and cut the excess off when it has cured


Cheers
John

BTW One of these days I will get around to doing the front sunroof:p

[future proof]

Hi,
I got a deal on genuine front spot lamps, so I fitted them to my Disco II. Why did I start ? It took ages and was a nightmare, you have to take the whole bumper cover, bumper, and lights out. Then the battery, and the fuse box. Then half the dash. LR quote 5hrs for this job, and it took me about 6-8 (tea breaks included) I would like to think I am experienced. You also run the risk of scratching the colour coded bumper, or breaking plastic clips if it is brittle. You need a drill bigger than the standard household drill will take. It went on and on.............

They look great, do what it says on the carton, but I would seriously think hard before fitting these again. That and the potential to break something else (light washer supply pipe or bumper end cap for example) is massive.

Go for it, you know they look great and do the job.

[qzdcg8]

Don't think it gets any easier with a Disco 3 ...

[Ogbyte]

Am know also in the process of replacing the headlining on the other Disco 300 V8 ES after getting one from ebay last week.

Have taken old lining out (quite simple too) and without trashing any clips :) :eek: but need to do some work around the Alpine windows before i fit the replacement lining.

Gary

[reedrider]

I have just been removing the water trap from my Disco 300tdi quite a simple job


1 Jack up on off side rear and remove wheel gives better access place on axle stand
2 try to remove pipes from water trap (14mm spanner most likely seized)
3 remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the water trap to the inner chassis (you will need a 17mm ring combo spanner and a 17mm socket and ratchet and either 6" or 10" extension)
4 cut the pipes clean and fit a section of rubber hose over the outside and secure with hose clips

time about 1 hour ease of job very easy apart from removing the bolts a bit awkward by your self
tools required
Jack trolley/bottle up o you
axle stand
wheel brace
17mm ring combo spanner
17mm socket ratchet extension 6"/10"
14mm ring combo spanner (for pipes)
Side cutters to cut pipes
Screw driver or tool for pipe clips
pair of goggles for the falling dust and muck from the chassis
Parts required for the job
12" of rubber hose to fit over the fuel line
2 x hose clips

[alboy]

alboy here im just starting a stripdown and rebuild of my diso td5 as the bearings and cranrkshaft have gone if thats any use to you.

[steamman]

There is an article section for Discoveries!

Currently it is sitting empty, and it could do with some filling up. I rarely get to work on Discoveries myself, so I am not likely to get the chance to do an article about them.

SO, if any of you fancy doing an article about a job you have done on your Discovery (even changing the oils, sorting the brakes, fitting extra lights.....anything like that) why not make an article of it? If you have anything that you think others would be interested in, why not give it a go? Remember, even if it is something you think is really simple, and that everybody should know, there will most likely still be folk that don't know how to do it!

If you are feeling inspired, send me, Lighting90 or Newsreader a PM, and we can give you some pointers on how to insert photos in the article (for example) OR simply post your article up in the articles section, and we will check it over and make it 'go live' for you (New articles get placed in a post moderation queue, so it will vanish as soon as you hit the 'post new thread' button.)

Over to you folks!

Hi Big Sandy, I recently took my Disco 200 tdi to a 4x4 station with a strange feel to the gearshift, the gear was hard to put into the third mesh, and so I thought it to be synchros or maybe even worse like a clutch,
It was diagnosed aftrer a road run that the fault was of a most common one, the bias plate on the lever had broken, causing the shift to wander aimlessly about due to the springs on the bias bolts being out of place, (it is the plate which allows the springs to work as should).
I purchased a new bias plate for around £4.00 and refitted the item.
as follows. Removal handbrake clevis pin just inside the tunnel cover, removal of the gearstick via the 10 mm bolt through its clamp piece ( after first removing the gaters of course). Then I found a series of 6mm screwa through a cover above the gearbox. now the plate was visible. and it is quite an easy matter to remove the plate as it will go over the stick and out.
The refiting is not always easy as the plate required some twiddling to fit past the housing, but it did go . I now had the task of manipulating the two springs over the bias plate bolts, and had to make up a tool from a pies of 10mm rod shaped like a tee bar the te was the handle, but at the other end I had to put a hacksaw cut using 3 sawblades in unison in the hacksaw to get the correct spring wire size, the cut was made across the diameter of the 10 mm bar at a depth of say 5 mm, this tool then enabled me to manipulate the springs over their respective bias bolts, by using the tool as pliers,(pliers are not as easy to use in this case.)
The holdig bolts then re tightened and all re assembled. for just £4.00.
Mind you my 4x4 dealer is one that will honestly assist a fellow mud clubber.

[Ellen]

Hi. I've just become a member here to try to find a good garage/mechanic to give my 1998 Disco a service and new brakes at the back. We're staying in Central London for a couple of weeks before returning to Norway, but are willing to drive some way to get it sorted. Can anyone help?
Ellen :o

[nickh75]

spent some time on here lookin through all the posts but can't help thinkin that its too serious:eek:
where's all the micky taking:confused: am i lookin in the wrong place:confused:


i know your gonna tell me ta fook orf back to LandyZone but where is all the fun on here.

help as it looks like a really good helpful site but needs some fun:rolleyes::D

[oxtonvillage]

spent some time on here lookin through all the posts but can't help thinkin that its too serious:eek:
where's all the micky taking:confused: am i lookin in the wrong place:confused:


i know your gonna tell me ta fook orf back to LandyZone but where is all the fun on here.

help as it looks like a really good helpful site but needs some fun:rolleyes::D

Click here (http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=sex+and+travel)

[Lighting90]

spent some time on here lookin through all the posts but can't help thinkin that its too serious:eek:
where's all the micky taking:confused: am i lookin in the wrong place:confused:


i know your gonna tell me ta fook orf back to LandyZone but where is all the fun on here.

help as it looks like a really good helpful site but needs some fun:rolleyes::D

The people do have fun, but the majority know where to draw the line, as it is a family based forum, why should we be the same as Landyzone, or any other forum you may wish to mention, we need to be different, just like they need to be different from us.
Quite a few people use this forum as well as others, simply as each forum offers something different.
:FC_Dormobile_2A:

[Lighting90]

Forgot to add, you will also notice we don't bombard you with adverts like Landyzone... :multicolour:

[Grantley Banfie]

Hi Gary,

I've got to replace both side window lifters on my Discovery 300tdi, soon as money and time allow. I've already looked at them and as on many "Rovers" they've just folded!! Before I fit the replacements I shall do what I did to ones on a Rover 600 some years back; I spot welded a plate on the back of the arms where they are folded for strenth soon as I do mine I'll photograph them and post it, maybe as an artical. One bit of advice to all owners; lubricate the window channels with a silicon spray after every car wash.

Regards, Gordon


Had this problem, bought a new lifter, received damaged,
eventually I spot welded that one and the faulty one on
my Disco ,this is about three years now, still working.
If you can have it Mig welded, should last.

Cheers.
Grantley Banfield.

[cooprey]

Hi Big Sandy, I recently took my Disco 200 tdi to a 4x4 station with a strange feel to the gearshift, the gear was hard to put into the third mesh, and so I thought it to be synchros or maybe even worse like a clutch,
It was diagnosed aftrer a road run that the fault was of a most common one, the bias plate on the lever had broken, causing the shift to wander aimlessly about due to the springs on the bias bolts being out of place, (it is the plate which allows the springs to work as should).
I purchased a new bias plate for around £4.00 and refitted the item.
as follows. Removal handbrake clevis pin just inside the tunnel cover, removal of the gearstick via the 10 mm bolt through its clamp piece ( after first removing the gaters of course). Then I found a series of 6mm screwa through a cover above the gearbox. now the plate was visible. and it is quite an easy matter to remove the plate as it will go over the stick and out.
The refiting is not always easy as the plate required some twiddling to fit past the housing, but it did go . I now had the task of manipulating the two springs over the bias plate bolts, and had to make up a tool from a pies of 10mm rod shaped like a tee bar the te was the handle, but at the other end I had to put a hacksaw cut using 3 sawblades in unison in the hacksaw to get the correct spring wire size, the cut was made across the diameter of the 10 mm bar at a depth of say 5 mm, this tool then enabled me to manipulate the springs over their respective bias bolts, by using the tool as pliers,(pliers are not as easy to use in this case.)
The holdig bolts then re tightened and all re assembled. for just £4.00.
Mind you my 4x4 dealer is one that will honestly assist a fellow mud clubber.

hi sorry to double quote but i'm a noob here, just got here via google after recently purchasing a disco tdi, been driving and having problems going from first to second gear, was told it was most likely the syncromesh which filled me will horror as i forked out hundreds replacing the gearbox on my old zafira before getting shut of it, but after seeing this article i'm gonna get the spanners out and hopefully i have the same problem, thanks again for this. see you all in the forums :)

[listerdiesel]

New to the forum today, but we are about to dive into the Disco world, possibly with an engine strip and rebuild to boot :cool: so can sort out pictures as we go along.

No2 son has a SWB Series III, steep learning curve for him, after his Combo Van, but we have sourced and fitted an overdrive, a 2.6 engine sits on the floor possibly awaiting fitting, so that's another possibility.

We have two large stationary engine related sites on the web, don't want to push them here, but to save folks asking, there's 9000 pages of engine stuff, probably soon to be joined by a few pages of Disco stuff as well!

Let you all know how we get on with the Disco later.

Peter

[listerdiesel]

Got the Disco, got to bring it back on a trailer on Monday.

More later, will post in the main Disco section rather than here.

Peter

[karona]

Hi All.

I have just replaced the Rear Disc's and Calipers and flexible brake paipes all round with braided stainless steel ones & new master Cylinder. I will write up a summary of the issues that i had and the problem i was trying to cure, with some pics as well. My LR is a 1998 V8 disco 1 (japanese import).

[rickyrooo1]

ok here goes - only a basic few jobs but i had a niggle with one so i'll post a pic or 2, just had the disco and 1st job is always main fluid and filters to change as you never know how true the book stamps are... as we know the oil filter is a pig to get off and haynes manual say take off big black engine cover - i managed to get it off without doing that and didn't spill much either, the problem i had was with the rotofilter some goon had obviously over tightened the one nut once upon a time and stripped the thread in the housing as it was loose one side - luckily it hadnt leaked and i managed to put a longer bolt in and pick up fresh thread - you can see in the pic a pozi head bolt. the fuel filter was so tight i had to get a chain wrench on it (is it supposed to be that hot? what do they do super heat the fuel? i couldn't belive how warm the old one was!) anyway i got it off so i'm now running new air fuel and 2 oil filters with semi-synthetic 5w30 oil pic's below of bits.

[uncle_sam]

Here's the procedure to change out a leaking air spring on a Disco TD5, without using a testbook.

1) Rock the car or drive it around until the air spring deflates. It should deflate as it is supposed to be leaking! I drive it over humps around my home until spring is deflated, then quickly shut the engine off on reaching home before the pump gets a chance to inflate it again.

2) Jack rear axle, place on jack stand and remove wheel.

3) Jack the chasis up to extend the deflated air spring. Make sure NOT to over do it. Leave some slack on the deflated air spring.

4) Remove 2 clips on the top of air spring.

5) Push top of air spring down to access the air hose connector.

6) Use a 10mm spanner to remove the pipe connector. DO NOT cut the hose. The instruction on the new parts may suggest to cut the hose, but this is not recommended as the hose dont have a lot to spare. Also, the end of the hose has a thickened neck, so there is a reason not to cut.

7) Remove the old air spring by turning 90 deg and lifting it out. It is held in place on the bottom by a Tee-shaped plastic in a slot.

8) Position the new spring on the bottom and turn 90 deg to lock it in place. Make sure the pipe connector faces the hose.

9) Remove the old pipe connector by pushing the hose through the nut and a split ring will come out with the hose. Pull out the split ring and the nut.

10) Clean the hose end. Remove the protective white plastic on the new pipe connector. Insert the hose into the pipe connector as far as it will go. No need to use excessive force.

11) Fit the top of the air spring and reinstall the 2 clips.

12) Check to ensure everything is done ok. Reinstall the wheel.

13) Lower the chasis slowly and remove the jack.

14) Remove the jack on the rear axle. Tighten wheel nuts to required torque.

15) Start engine and the pump should raise the car to the correct height on its own. Voila, done.

Attached pictures for illustration.

[mallee59]

Hi,
I got a deal on genuine front spot lamps, so I fitted them to my Disco II. Why did I start ? It took ages and was a nightmare, you have to take the whole bumper cover, bumper, and lights out. Then the battery, and the fuse box. Then half the dash. LR quote 5hrs for this job, and it took me about 6-8 (tea breaks included) I would like to think I am experienced. You also run the risk of scratching the colour coded bumper, or breaking plastic clips if it is brittle. You need a drill bigger than the standard household drill will take. It went on and on.............

They look great, do what it says on the carton, but I would seriously think hard before fitting these again. That and the potential to break something else (light washer supply pipe or bumper end cap for example) is massive.

Go for it, you know they look great and do the job.
Apologies if I am stating the obvious, re larger drill bits. We use Cone Cutters at work and they fit into a 10mm chuck and will cut a hole up to approx 25mm. They are usually in 2 sizes and will cut a taper hole. Tere are also stepped cone cutters available
Cheers
Mallee