Rear Floor for 200tdi.!!

[gulfsoldier]

Hi all,
Ive never posted a thread on here before, but what a great site it is.
I recently bought a 200tdi k reg, looked really great. Blacked out windows, eletric this and that, etc etc. have had it 2 months and already i have had to replace the front suspension, the cylinder head, and now the whole of the rear floor and seatbelt harness needed welding. What cost me to buy at £2500 has just added a further £2800.!! What got me was the floor was not even picked up on an MOT!!
Im not selling, it works great now and should not need much attention and i will be useing it a lot over the next year.
Wanted you all to know i have the faith.

steve

[thebiglad]

Hi all,
Ive never posted a thread on here before, but what a great site it is.
I recently bought a 200tdi k reg, looked really great. Blacked out windows, eletric this and that, etc etc. have had it 2 months and already i have had to replace the front suspension, the cylinder head, and now the whole of the rear floor and seatbelt harness needed welding. What cost me to buy at £2500 has just added a further £2800.!! What got me was the floor was not even picked up on an MOT!!
Im not selling, it works great now and should not need much attention and i will be useing it a lot over the next year.
Wanted you all to know i have the faith.

steve


Hi Steve, just so you know, I can't weld, but I fitted a new floor in my TDi200 and in total cost me about £110.

I'm in the grip of a death virus at the mo (so Christmas is looking great - NOT!!) but in the New Year I will be writing an article (in the Discovery Articles section) on how I did this myself without welding.

I've attached before and after piccies so you can judge. It took a lot of thinking time but the working time was probably 2 days.

[Peter Cowin]

The Big Lad,

Looks like a great job, my off roader will need it's floor doing at some time so I an looking forward to the article.:D

[TEMPL4R]

What got me was the floor was not even picked up on an MOT!!

The front 12" is testable because of the seat belts Steve, the rear is advisory, you have a seperate chassis. If it was a Jeep, Freelander or Jap 4x4 with a monocoque body, it will all be testable.

As said, a nice tidy job on the repair.

Chris

[kevinrbeech]

Hi Guys,
I can weld but I still chose to fit my new floor using bolts and pop rivets. Unfortunately I had to weld some of the area around the floor panel. The benefit of not welding it in is that you can rust-proof it before fitting and not burn it off again.
Did mine about 4 years ago still in perfect condition, I have to mention though, I did stop the leaks around the windows before doing the floor.
Mine was fitted using M8 stainless nuts and bolts, along the rear edge I used pop-rivets to avoid removing the tank.
Be careful when cutting out the old floor, on the forward edge the brake pipe is quite high as it is fixed to the car at this point, above the rear axle. Also be careful of the tank, a 4" angle grinder will make a mess of either, or both, of these.
I used "Body Caulking", available from a motor factors, far better than silicone, to bed the panel in and to waterproof the join.
A coat of underseal, from an aerosol is a good protector for the panel, you can even put a couple of coats of gloss on top of that to make it more durable, and it gives a more professional finished look.
Don't forget to buy new support for the underside too.
Final point, when drilling for the pop-rivets, don't go through the tank.
Kevin
cor, don't I waffle on?