View Full Version : January to March / Johannesburg to Congo Trip
Marc Lurie
18th Jan 2008, 10:36
As some of you might know, I am taking a trip from Johannesburg to Kolwezi in the Congo where I have quite a lot of work to do. One of the other forum members, Conkers, has flown over here to join me for the trip.
I thought it might be interesting to a few of the other forum members if I chronicled the trip as we go along. I can't guarantee daily updates due to internet issues, but I will update as often as possible.
Conkers arrived on Friday 11th Jan, and I submitted his passport for a Congo visa on Monday afternoon. We are still waiting... and it's Friday midday. We hope to have the visas by this afternoon, and we'll be off.
Our proposed route is from Johannesburg to Zimbabwe via Beit Bridge, then through Zimbabwe to Victoria Falls. Over the Falls, into Zambia then to Lusaka. From Lusaka it's north to Ndola, and across the border into Congo at Chililabombwe. Then on to Lubumbashi and finally to Kolwezi.
We've spend the last three days getting the vehicle ready for the trip, and we're all packed and rearing to go. It's just sooooo frustrating waiting for the bloomin' visas.:(
A bit about the vehicle:
It's a 2006 model 110 Kalahari Defender with a 300Tdi engine. It's a "bare-bones" version with no carpets, no central locking, vinyl seats etc. Standard tyres are Michelins.
I've added a small Tabor winch, Easi Awn roofrack and rooftent, a 60l internally mounted water tank, a 45l wing mounted long range diesel tank, a Howling Moon awning, a 30l Engel fridge, and a Mantec snorkel.
I've also built a shelf for the load space and removed the rear seats.
More later... I'm going to try to find out about the visas. Wish me luck. ;)
adrianandkate
18th Jan 2008, 11:37
More later... I'm going to try to find out about the visas. Wish me luck. ;)
Of course. Good luck - not just with the visas - for the whole trip. Hope you both enjoy it. :)
A&K
adrianandkate
18th Jan 2008, 11:39
By the way, Adrian says have you packed spider bearings? Having spent most of yesterday under someone's (2003) Defender.....they'll definitely be on our list in future.
Kate
Madoobri
18th Jan 2008, 11:45
I thought it might be interesting to a few of the other forum members if I chronicled the trip as we go along.
Please do Marc ... looking forward to reading about your journey, have a safe & enjoyable trip guys. :)
bvudzichena
18th Jan 2008, 12:41
Has Conkers been taking his anti malaria tabs?
Geobloke
18th Jan 2008, 13:00
Spot on Marc, looking forward to the updates. Give my regards to Conrad too, hope you guys have a great drive. Am very jealous!
Photos! we want lots of pics! :D
Geobloke
18th Jan 2008, 13:02
Has Conkers been taking his anti malaria tabs?
Man they sent me trippin' when I spent time in Nigeria! :rolleyes::eek: Pretty colours!!!!! :eek::p
Marc Lurie
18th Jan 2008, 13:56
Dateline: Friday 18th January - My office in Johannesburg - 15h50
Still waiting for the visa...
I got a call from Big Bernard (the "organiser" for one of my clients, and when they say "big" they mean "BIIG". He's about 6'2" and weighs about 170kg). He tells me that the Commisioner who signs the visas didn't come to work today, but there are about 200 people demanding visas and he's deigned to come in later. We should get the visas by around 7pm tonight.
So we'll only leave at sparrow's fart tomorrow morning. :confused:
The term "OIA" stands for "Only In Africa". I suspect I'll be using it often. :D
bvudzichena
18th Jan 2008, 14:01
The term "OIA" stands for "Only In Africa". I suspect I'll be using it often. :D
The other one I'm sure we'll be seeing is; "Africa aint for sissies" :D
Roger Whittle
18th Jan 2008, 16:50
Right, I'm not going to guess. I have installed my Sunday Times Atlas next to my chair in the living room and have just followed your intended route. Oh wow!
There is just one, tiny question please Marc? According to my atlas, Kolwezi is in southern Zaire? The Congo is almost as far again to Kinshasa and then across the Congo (isn't that where Kingsley had trouble?) to Brazzaville. What trick have I missed?
But its still; Oh wow!
Roger.
Geobloke
18th Jan 2008, 17:21
The term "OIA" stands for "Only In Africa". I suspect I'll be using it often. :D
Lol yup ain't that the truth!
Fingers crossed for the visa's!
I'll be following this too!! Many thanks for the effort thus far and keep them coming if you please!!!
H
Marc Lurie
19th Jan 2008, 06:57
Dateline: Saturday 19th January - My house in Johannesburg - 08h50
GOT THE VISAS. Last night at about 7pm we finally got the visas. Instead of leaving right away we decided to have a pizza and do some planning.
We'll be leaving in about an hour after pancakes and maple syrup.
Roger, you atlas need updating. ;) Kolwezi certainly is in southern Zaire, but Zaire doesn't exist anymore.
If you remember, there was the French Congo and there was the Belgian Congo. The French Congo is small, and the capital is Brazzaville. It is called the Republic of the Congo or commonly Congo-Brazzaville.
The Belgian Congo was renamed Zaire by Mobuto Sese-Seko in the early 70's and was called Zaire until around 1995 after Mobuto died and Laurent Kabila took over. The country was named the Democratic Republic of the Congo in spite of there not having been an election since the mid 60's. :rolleyes:. It's commonly known as Congo-Kinshasa and it is HUGE.:eek: It's the second largest country in Africa, and has only 480km of tarred road!:p
Steve HNZ
19th Jan 2008, 11:31
All the best Marc, I'll be watching the thread avidly. I hope the OIA doesn't become AWA but it sounds like your planning has been thorough & I can't see that happening.:)
Steve.
Roger Whittle
19th Jan 2008, 14:12
You are right about updating it Marc, I think we got it not long after we got married - and that was thirty-six years ago. :eek:
Okay, I have you plotted in and we expect daily updates - Conkers can text me and I'll post it on here.
Good luck guys, have a good one and stay safe. :)
Roger.
bvudzichena
19th Jan 2008, 14:44
Okay, I have you plotted in and we expect daily updates - Conkers can text me and I'll post it on here.
Roger,
I'm not so sure about cellular coverage where they are going. If they do have signal, then there's the issue of roaming sometimes being complicated in Africa.
Roaming doesn't work well in Zimbabwe. This I know. But it does work very well in Zambia. The last time I was in Lubumbashe there was no local cellular coverage, but if we parked up on a hill, we'd get signal on the Nokia 6090 (it has a powerful transceiver) from Zambia. I don't know what things are like there now.
Roger Whittle
19th Jan 2008, 15:23
Roger,
I'm not so sure about cellular coverage where they are going. If they do have signal, then there's the issue of roaming sometimes being complicated in Africa.
Roaming doesn't work well in Zimbabwe. This I know. But it does work very well in Zambia. The last time I was in Lubumbashe there was no local cellular coverage, but if we parked up on a hill, we'd get signal on the Nokia 6090 (it has a powerful transceiver) from Zambia. I don't know what things are like there now.
I know Bvudzi, we only got mobile signal every now and then in Lesotho - and most of that 'leaked over' from SA :rolleyes: - usually in the 'big' towns. But for sure they'll get mobile signal before they get broadband. :D
Roger.
bvudzichena
19th Jan 2008, 15:29
I know Bvudzi, we only got mobile signal every now and then in Lesotho - and most of that 'leaked over' from SA :rolleyes: - usually in the 'big' towns. But for sure they'll get mobile signal before they get broadband. :D
Are you suggesting I go and build Internet base stations in Lesotho?
If we could get an aid organisation to pick up the bill under the guise of a "rural wireless broadband for schools" project, we may just be in business :D:D:D
Roger Whittle
19th Jan 2008, 15:38
:LAA::LAA:
Roger.
Tontu Safaris
19th Jan 2008, 17:01
Wishing you an excellent safari. Don't forget to take plenty of 'rushwa'. What are you doing in the Congo? My tour manager used to work in the Congo for the UN and says it's a really beautiful country. Have a great trip, will be watching for your reports. Yes Africa can be pretty hairy sometimes. Last night four thieves tried to scale the walls, had our poor Maasai in a state of shock. Still having killed a lion I think he'll give a good show of himself, before the cavalry arrive.
All the best.
Roger Whittle
19th Jan 2008, 19:54
Wishing you an excellent safari. Don't forget to take plenty of 'rushwa'. What are you doing in the Congo? My tour manager used to work in the Congo for the UN and says it's a really beautiful country. Have a great trip, will be watching for your reports. Yes Africa can be pretty hairy sometimes. Last night four thieves tried to scale the walls, had our poor Maasai in a state of shock. Still having killed a lion I think he'll give a good show of himself, before the cavalry arrive.
All the best.
I think they are on their way now. Welcome aboard the forum, you've come to the right place. Where in Tanzania are you and what are we going to call you - Tontu? Tell us more about yourself.
Marc is a communications engineer and he's going to Kolwezi to install a big network of vehicle based and fixed base radio systems. Conkers is a familiar forum member from the UK and he has gone with Marc to help with the driving and some of the 'bolting in' work.
Roger.
Marc says 480 kms of tarred road. Look here (http://youtube.com/watch?v=jhmJZLSUvzU&feature=related) and here (http://youtube.com/watch?v=gcQzS7K60o0&feature=related) to see what some of the other roads in the Congo look like :eek: .
Roger Whittle
20th Jan 2008, 22:27
Marc says 480 kms of tarred road. Look here (http://youtube.com/watch?v=jhmJZLSUvzU&feature=related) and here (http://youtube.com/watch?v=gcQzS7K60o0&feature=related) to see what some of the other roads in the Congo look like :eek: .
Oh wow! Interestingly, that Disco didn't have a winch. I would've thought a front winch at least is essential RDC equipment. Fortunately Marc has got one. :D
Roger.
Henk Coetzee
21st Jan 2008, 07:20
Oh wow! Interestingly, that Disco didn't have a winch. I would've thought a front winch at least is essential RDC equipment. Fortunately Marc has got one. :D
Roger.
Although based on past experience, a high-lift and the sides of a dropside truck do perfectly well.
bvudzichena
21st Jan 2008, 07:36
That looks like the road from Kinshasa to Matadi.
I watched the first video and thought to myself; "This has to be a p1ss take, nobody really does silly things like that with sand ladders and stumps".
Then I watched the second video, saw the recovery chain snap off and realised that it wasn't a joke. These guys really don't know how to drive in those conditions and don't even rule #1 of vehicle recovery - remove the bystanders for their own safety.
Most of the African members of this forum are fortunate to have grown up driving in conditions like that, so we know to check water pools for potholes and we know how to drive ruts or "middelmannetjies". On the other hand, many people who buy a Land Rover, "prepare it for an expedition" and head off into the abyss don't have a clue as to what they can expect. It's always a good idea do to some offroad driving before tackling something like this.
That these guys made it to Cape Town without death or serious injury speaks wonders for old 200TDi Disco's.
bvudzichena
21st Jan 2008, 07:54
Probably a bit off topic, but here (http://www.chat-africa.co.za/upload/brian/b42008jan/index.htm) are some pics or Marc, Brigid, Conrad, Mike & Margaret (mmgemini) at Base4 a couple of weekends ago.
Marc Lurie
21st Jan 2008, 20:34
We're alive!
We're in Lusaka, Zambia in the parking lot of the Fariview Hotel. I'll explain why later.
Day one:
We left Joburg at around 10am after a night of heavy "planning". Arrived at the Beit Bridge boredr post at around 4pm. Getting through the SA side was a doddle. The Zim side was fekking crazy :eek: Because of the food crisis in Zim, every man jack is going to SA to buy stuff. When they go back they have to pay duties, and the queue is terrifying. All went well with my passport, but Conkers needed a $50 visa to get into Zim. Is this Bob's way of exacting revenge on the British colonialists?
The lady doing the visas was not entirely helpful because she was extremely busy... busy playing solitaire on the immigration department computer.
I then tried to do the Temporary Import Permit for the car, and was told that I had to pay $100,000 per litre import duty on the spare diesel I was carrying. That's $100,000 x 120 litres :eek: Roger, do the arithmetic... that's millions of dollars!!! Fortunately they're Zim dollars, so it worked out to about GBP2. The trouble is, to pay the 2 pounds, you have to wait in a queue for two or three hours. I decided to chance the customs check. We were allowed theough after I told the customs guy that we were in transit.
We reached Rod's Guesthouse, about 150km from the border outside West Nicholson and booked in for the night. The owner, a pot-bellied grumpy bu&&er has an old Landy under his carport. He confidently told us it was a 1942 model Series 0. WTF??? :confused: Due to his size and demeanour, we both agreed with him.
We had a lovely braai with the family, discussed Landrovers, Bob Mugabe, fishing, life the universe and everything, and did some "planning" well into the night.
Day Two:
a) Landrover has made a MONUNTAL cock-up. Kalahari Defender seats are made of vinyl.
b) Diethyltoluamide (DEET) eats vinyl...
a+b=c
c) You can't wear insect repellant in a Defender if you want to have something under your bum to cushion the shock of the bad roads.
We left early morning, and headed for Bulawayo for the first of the mercy missions. Brigid's elderly aunt has a friend in Bulawayo who is virtually destitute. She asked me to deliver some US$ to Val as a much-needed gift. We dropped off the money and headed for Hwange to deliver an aid package to my friend Richard's mum. It was a large box of stuff you can't get in Zimbabwe. You know, the sort of stuff that you can't alwas find at your local Tesco's... toilet paper, peanut butter, soap, toothpaste, washing powder, etc. The state of Zimbabwe is shocking. There is no produce available, and a beer costs in excess of $5,000,000-00. Bob's made a real hash of it!
We passed three giraffe on the road, and a solitary black wildebeest. Lovely scenery blah blah blah (I'm blase, but Conckers was a tad stoked)
More later...
Marc Lurie
21st Jan 2008, 20:46
Here's the "more" I warned you about...
We got to the Zim/Zam border at about 6pm. The Zim folk were very friendly and we were through their side of the border in 5 minutes. The Zam side started off very well. We had our passports stamped and Conkers had his $75 visa sorted out in about 10 minutes. THEN..... the "illiterate bitch from hell" looked at my vehicle papers and went into a total mental melt-down and wouldn't allow the vehicle into Zambia... for NO EARTHLY REASON WHATSOEVER.
First, she wante 150,000 Kwacha as a carbon tax, but wouldn't accept US Dollars. WE went in search of a bureau de change, or even a black market dealer, but go nowhere. Eventually I paid US$50 for K150,000, a premium of around 50% on the normal exchange rate.
Then, after I give her the money, the stupid bureaucratic tw@t still wouldn't authorise the vehicle. She had to call her manager... who was in Livingstone... 9km away.... having his dinner.... and wasn't going to do anything until the next day. I blew a minor fuse and let her know that I was not particularly happy with Zambian efficiency.
Many phone calls, and almost 3 hours later she finally put a big blue rubber stamp on a small piece of paper, and we were in Zambia.
We stayed at Maramba River Lodge in really nice tented chalets. After a spot of "planning" on the banks of the Zambezi River we heard the sound of hippos. There were about three hippos messing about lazily about 100m away upstream. The barlady also told us that crocs and hippos had been wandering around that morning. It's a really pretty place, with deafeningly loud frogs, and the gentle grunt of hippos in the distance... PARADISE.
bvudzichena
21st Jan 2008, 20:49
Marc,
Just so you know, your IP address is showing as 196.207.47.60
Seems to me that whichever cellular network you're using in Zambia farmed their entire data network out to Vodacom SA.
A trace from my 'puter puts you 48 milliseconds away from me.
Tracing route to vc-196-207-47-60.3g.vodacom.co.za [196.207.47.60]
over a maximum of 30 hops:
1 1 ms <1 ms <1 ms 196.212.31.185
2 45 ms 44 ms 45 ms 196.212.250.241
3 45 ms 46 ms 45 ms cdsl1-rba-gi1-0-44.ip.isnet.net [196.36.80.209]
4 46 ms 45 ms 46 ms core1a-rba-gi0-2.ip.isnet.net [168.209.1.141]
5 46 ms 45 ms 47 ms cp3-rba-gi0-1.ip.isnet.net [196.26.0.250]
6 47 ms 45 ms 46 ms cp1-rba-gi0-1.ip.isnet.net [168.209.86.166]
7 48 ms 46 ms 47 ms rrba-ip-spe-2-wan.telkom-ipnet.co.za [196.25.127
.181]
8 46 ms 45 ms 45 ms 196.43.25.137
9 47 ms 46 ms 46 ms tpr-ip-esr-6-gig-0-0-0.telkom-ipnet.co.za [196.4
3.26.42]
10 48 ms 47 ms 48 ms 196.25.250.218
11 48 ms 48 ms 48 ms vc-196-207-47-60.3g.vodacom.co.za [196.207.47.60
]
Trace complete.
And why exactly are you in the hotel parking lot?
Where are the pics of Conkers jumping off the bridge?
Marc Lurie
21st Jan 2008, 20:56
Day Three:
Off we went to see the Victoria Falls, the widest falls in the world, and a World Heritage site. The Zambezi is in full flow, and we got soaked by the rain that the falls produce. The falls are known as "Mosi-o-Tunya" or "The Smoke That Thunders". You can hear them from over 5km away, and the column of water vapour rises hundreds of metres in the air. A truly awesome sight. We'll post pics later when we have a better internet connection.
We then headed for Lusaka, the capital of Zambia.
We arrived to find Lusaka without electricity. The whole country had been cut off the grid for some reason. After a rather strange meal of chicken cooked outside on a fire, we decided that, being a full moon, we'd put some chairs up in the parking lot, try to log onto the internet, and do some "planning" for tomorrow. And that is why this must be one of the strangest posts ever to be posted on this forum. :D It was posted from a beach chair set up in the parking lot of the Fairways Hotel in Lusaka, using an inverter to power the computer of the Landy battery, under the light of the moon, using a cell phone as the modem. :)
I'll try to post pics soon.
Marc
Marc Lurie
21st Jan 2008, 21:04
Seems to me that whichever cellular network you're using in Zambia farmed their entire data network out to Vodacom SA.
Regardless off which cell network I use, everything goes through Vodacom SA. It was the same with travelling in Germany, Spain and Portugal. Zimbabwe however, didn't wotk at all.
Marc Lurie
21st Jan 2008, 21:40
A trace from my 'puter puts you 48 milliseconds away from me.
And 20 years behind you... ;)
Roger Whittle
21st Jan 2008, 21:43
I imagine Conrad is in total culture shock and brain melt. :D What an adventure and its only day three? :eek:
Looking forwad to the pictures guys.
Roger.
Marc Lurie
21st Jan 2008, 21:49
BTW, Conckers is thinking about taking a Zambian wife... even if it's for just one night. :) We have managed, by good fortune, to be surrounded by very beautiful women over the past three days. The receptionist at the Fairview Hotel has caught his eye now. GO CONKERS!!!
Roger Whittle
21st Jan 2008, 22:44
BTW, Conckers is thinking about taking a Zambian wife... even if it's for just one night. :) We have managed, by good fortune, to be surrounded by very beautiful women over the past three days. The receptionist at the Fairview Hotel has caught his eye now. GO CONKERS!!!
If he brings her home, I'm not bailing him out of UK Imigration. :eek:
Roger.
We stayed at the Maramba River Lodge a few years ago and found it great. They didn't have tented camps then (1997). I was in the hammock that stretches from the river bank slithly out over the Maramba River and looked down to see a baby 2 foot long crocodile walking past underneath the hammock. Wasn't too worried about that but was kept wondering where it's mother was :D.
While we were there Shirley and a friend went in search of mielie (corn) husks for a Sunday School project and they went a good few kilometres into the bush in search of a farm in which direction they had been pointed. So there were these two white women in sun hats and shorts walking through the thick bush when a black chap dressed in a suit and tie came charging into a clearing. Tried to catch his breath from running and without batting an eyelid about these two white women in sun hats, and literally in the middle of nowhere, gasped between breaths that they must run because he had left his pick-up truck and the elephants were coming and then promptly disappeared into the bush on the otherside of the clearing.
Shirley and Sandy then headed back only to find that the elephants had beaten them back to the camp but the girls managed to get back in.
Marc Lurie
22nd Jan 2008, 08:16
AND NOW LADIES AND GENTLEMEN... (drumroll)... the moment you've all been waiting for. LANDROVER HISTORY COMPLETELY RE-WRITTEN...
I PRESENT TO YOU THE NEVER-BEFORE-SEEN...
SERIES 0, 1942 MODEL (huge fanfare)
Never argue with a big, grumpy Zimbabwean especially after a few beers. If he says it's a 1942 model, then it is. :D
How about that steering wheel? Did Cheech and Chong ever drive a series?
bvudzichena
22nd Jan 2008, 08:30
Never argue with a big, grumpy Zimbabwean especially after a few beers.
You would do well to remember that little, jovial South African.
:D:D:D
Looks to me like his Series 0 is in fact a IIA.
The "Series 0" story is common in Zim. Remember that 1958 Series 1 109" delux cab bakkie that I had and you were thinking of buying? That was sold to me in Zim as a "Series 0".
Marc Lurie
22nd Jan 2008, 15:44
Looks to me like his Series 0 is in fact a IIA.
It's a 107" Series 1 with an engine that looks original. She's in great condition, and would be a perfect restoration project.
Perhaps the rivet counters will shed some light on the model. We looked for a chassis number but couldn't find one.
I'm busy having a few sundowners at the moment :beers: and can confirm that IS a series 0 but maybe a 1943 model and not 1942. Where have you South African Land Rover owners been all your life.
Roger Whittle
22nd Jan 2008, 19:21
I'm busy having a few sundowners at the moment :beers: and can confirm that IS a series 0 but maybe a 1943 model and not 1942. Where have you South African Land Rover owners been all your life.
You could get the 1942 Series 0 for a pig and a few yards of parachute silk, but the 1943 model was a lot more. A pig, three packs of nylons, a christmas cake with real eggs in it and a shed load of rationing coupons. :D
Roger.
bvudzichena
22nd Jan 2008, 20:04
Did I hear the words "load" and "shed" ?
Roger Whittle
22nd Jan 2008, 22:38
Did I hear the words "load" and "shed" ?
:LAA: :rotfl:
Roger.
Thank you for the updates! I hope that you are having a good trip regardless of the stupid ***** at the borders!
H
Marc Lurie
23rd Jan 2008, 16:28
Wednesday 23rd. Lubumbashi, Democratic Republic of the Congo.
We've made it to the capital of the Congolese copper belt. :yay:
Sorry about not posting yesterday, but as we set up the computer, all the power went off in Zambia for the second consecutive night.
We had a completely uneventful drive from Lusaka to Kitwe in northern Zambia. The roads are good, and we made good time. We stopped over at the Provident Guest House where we watched the African Cup match between Zambia and Sudan. Thank the lord for two things: a) The power came back on about 15 minutes before the game, and b) Zambia won. We then sat around "planning" our route for the next day. Conkers tried his first Congolese beer, and declared it "Bloody nice". :D
This morning I awoke with trepidation about the border crossing. I hate them at the best of times, but crossing into the DRC is another kettle of fish altogether.
We got to Chililabombwe town and called ahead to our "protocol" at the border, then we drove past a queue of trucks that was at least 3km long. We estimated around 1000 trucks waiting to get through the border. We parked at the border post and sheers chaos erupted around us.
An instant crowd of "popups" appeared all shouting, begging, cajoling, and hassling us. I've done this a few times before ;) so I knew not to talk with anyone, and not to engage the services of any of the touts. Our man, Eric, was very efficient and sorted out the Zambian side quickly... except... the final exit gate remained closed because some jumped-up crooked policeman had noticed that the last three digits on my ID number on my car papers is different to the numbers on my passport. I tried to explain that since 1994 there was no racial classification on ID numbers, and they'd all been changed, but he was having none of that. Eric sent me back to the car and had a "discussion" with the cop. After discussing Benjamin Franklin 150 times;), we were free to leave Zambia.
The mini crowd that formed around us followed us into the Congolese side of the border where our "protocol", Guy, took our papers and disappeared for about 2 hours. Then we were through, and in the Congo.
The road deteriorated immediately and it was all muddy and potholed. I made the mistake of accidentally splashing mud on some blokes trousers. I didn't even really notice and carried on driving. The next thing we know, a truck roars up alongside and cuts us off. Off jumps an irate Congolese, demanding money for destroying his trousers. How much do think he demanded?
$50! :eek:
So, the haggling began. Eventually I paid him Five US dollars, 50,000 Zambian Kwacha, and 2000 Congolese Francs. Then I wished him a pleasant day in perfect Afrikaans "Jy's 'n dom kont en ek hoop jou ballas word groen en vervrot" with a delightful smile.
After a few km of crappy broken tar we reached the toll road. "Excellent" said Conkers, "a decent road"..... The toll road was worse than the previous stuff. The toll is $50 and all we got was about 5km of decent road in the entire 90km stretch. That must be the most expensive road on the planet.
We bumbled along the toll road, dodging bicycles, dogs, kids, and overloaded trucks. The Congolese drive on the right. They also drive on the left, and the middle, and on the verges. There are few road rules. If you see a gap, take it. Finally we made Lubumbashi got to our hotel. I'll post some pics later this evening.
I think by now Conkers must seriously think we are all totally mad to live in Africa :D .
V8_Disco
23rd Jan 2008, 16:39
Is he thinking with all the "Planning" going on?
Aidan
Marc Lurie
23rd Jan 2008, 16:46
Here are a few photos.
I hope I get the order correct.
1) This is Jorge from Golddiggers Grill where a thousand planning sessions have been held.
2) This is a photo of my office, in pitch darkness, with my staff having to resort to making coffee on my camping Trangia because Escom were load shedding. :o
3) Conkers first "real" proof that he was on an adventure, a roadsign pointing to Zimbabwe. BTW on the lamp pole is a newspaper headline "Malaria breaks out in city (Pietersburg)".
4) The monument at the Tropic of Capricorn. it's going to get hotter from now on.
5) A bus in Zimbabwe
6) At Livingstone we stoped to have a look at the Victoria Falls. We had a sandwich on the side of the road, surrounded by vervet monkeys. Conkers puts his sandwich on the fender of the landy to take a picture of one vervets spectacular irridescent blue scrotum, and another monkey jumps up like lightning and swipes his sandwich. :D
7) That's me in my office in the carpark of the Fairways Hotel in Lusaka. The towel around my knees is to protect my laptop from the DEET, not because I was cold. :D
8) This is proof that there is at least ONE Freelander that has survived Zambia for more than a week. :)
More to follow later...
Roger Whittle
23rd Jan 2008, 17:49
Evocative photographs Marc, as ever, and it was good to hear from you both this afternoon. I think your 'fixer' turned up at that moment, but I didn't catch whether or not you thought you would get to Kolwezi tonight or tomorrow?
By the way, I see Escom was shedding load that evening in 'Diggers' as well. Is Jorge about to set fire to those boerwors? :eek:
Roger.
Marc Lurie
24th Jan 2008, 05:45
Evocative photographs Marc,
I can't take the credit for these photos. They are Conker's.
We reached Lubumbashi last evening. The drive to Kolwezi will take an minimum of 8 hours, probably longer depending on the mud. It's only about 350 km away. If there's been bad damage to the road, it could take us two days. :eek:
It's going to be good to reach Kolwezi and get settled in the guest house. I'm getting tired of living out of a bag, and I wan to to get the work started.
I'll post when we get to Kolwezi.
Is Jorge about to set fire to those boerwors? :eek:
Roger.
Not boerewors Roger. That's Portuguese sausage called (excuse the spelling) courico (pronounced sore- ree-so). Lovely stuff.
Roger Whittle
24th Jan 2008, 16:33
Not boerewors Roger. That's Portuguese sausage called (excuse the spelling) courico (pronounced sore- ree-so). Lovely stuff.
Oh, beg pardon Kev' - but he still looks as though he's pouring 'fire water' on to them and there'll be a minor conflagration in a few moments. :D
Looking forward to when you 'land' then Marc.:)
Roger.
Marc Lurie
24th Jan 2008, 20:43
We've made it to Kolwezi. :yay:
Today was quite tough. we left Lubumbashi at around 11h45 with a Congolese guide and US$100 in bribe money :confused:
The first 90km to Likasi was a doddle... tarred roads, 100kph etc. then the fufu hit the fan ("fufu" BTW is boiled tapioca root).
The next 200km was straight out of one of Conker's wet dreams. :D Mud, dirt, potholes, crazy drivers, crooked cops, broken lorries, small trading villages, people, goats, pigs, chickens, ... and Landrover troubles.;)
The Landie has performed flawlessly up until now. OK, so my home-made roof console fell off, but that's no big deal.
On the road between Likasi and Kolwezi, the passenger's side door lock decided to fall off. FORTUNATELY it fell off at exactly the moment we hit a small stretch of tar, and we were able to find all the bits and repair the door. I guess the door lock wasn't fastened properly on the assembly line... Why am I not surprised??? ;)
Anyway, we reached Kolwezi 6 1/2 hours and 300km later.
On the way we met some delightful policemen. We parted with a few Congolese Francs in gratitude for them letting us through. All-in-all, just another day in Africa :D
There's a new bar in Kolwezi, known as "Gerard's". Conkers and I did some planning for tomorrow, and then I told Conkers that Congolese businesses open at 6:30am. He looked somewhat paler than usual, and forelornly mentioned that 6:30 was only a few hours away. He'd best get used to the hours... Africa ain't for sissies. :D
Roger Whittle
25th Jan 2008, 00:48
Well done guys - thanks for the report. Just out of vulgar interest Marc, how much has the trip cost in terms of diesel (ligitimate expense) and bribes (reprehensible but, from what I can make out, inevitable and unavoidable :eek:).
Then, of course, what would it have cost - financially and in terms of risk and inconvenience - to fly there? :D
Roger.
Marc Lurie
25th Jan 2008, 07:13
Just out of vulgar interest Marc, how much has the trip cost in terms of diesel (ligitimate expense) and bribes (reprehensible but, from what I can make out, inevitable and unavoidable :eek:).
Roger, I'll do a costing sometime his evening and let you know. I have to do it anyway for the company.
Today the work starts in earnest. :(
Cheers,
Marc
Marc Lurie
25th Jan 2008, 08:39
Here's a few more photos. The name of the photo should be self-explanatory.
I really love the Suzuki billboard ("a real 4x4") and the receipt I got at the border for insurance, stating the car as a Jeep Landrover :D
Marc Lurie
25th Jan 2008, 12:55
I think that so far, I qualify for the "Bhumwholly Award" for this trip.
I was cleaning out the landy, and had a whole bunch of empty cans and paper etc. which I dumped i the bin in the kitchen.
After lunch, I couldn't find my keys, and we had to break into the Landy, thinking that the keys were locked inside.
Much brain wracking ensued, until I figured out their wherabouts... in the bin, under a bunch of soggy lettuce, cigarette butts and last night's chicken. :D
Glad you didn't lose Conkers along with the door :D .
Roger Whittle
25th Jan 2008, 19:44
I think that so far, I qualify for the "Bhumwholly Award" for this trip.
.................................................. ...........................
Oh yes! :D Emlyn will be jigging up and down with glee about that. :D:D
Roger.
mmgemini
28th Jan 2008, 08:49
Hi Marc & Conkers,
Pleased you are enjoying yourselves!!!!!
Now I know why you wanted to try out the Trangia at the last meet ! You can't beat them for making a quick brew.
Look after yourselves
Margaret & Mike
Marc Lurie
28th Jan 2008, 12:14
Pleased you are enjoying yourselves!!!!!
"Enjoying" is a relative term ;) We've had a few days of annoying frustration, Conkers is sleeping on the couch in my residence because there's no water or electricity in his. The toilets don't flush, the roads are shot, and it's either hot and dusty, or wet and muddy.
We would be working this afternoon, but the Congolese don't work in the rain. They looked at Conkers and me as if we were nuts when I had the audacity to suggest that they should do some work in the rain. :confused: They laughed at Conker's gaiters :D
But they didn't laugh at us when we made a cup of hot coffee with the Trangia. :razz:
adafish
28th Jan 2008, 19:17
". They laughed at Conker's gaiters :D
. :razz:........was that in the Brothel?
Marc Lurie
29th Jan 2008, 11:27
Today has been spent mostly waiting for Congolese to bring their radios to us for re-programming. We've installed the two repeaters and their UHF links, and they seem to be up-and-running pretty well.
While we were in the workshops, Conkers suggested blowing out the air filter of the Landy with compressed air. I was quite amazed at how much dust came out of that filter. Just when you thought there couldn't be any more, another puff of air, and another billow of dust. :eek:
bvudzichena
29th Jan 2008, 11:33
Marc,
Are you using a K&N or do you use those paper filters from Land Rover?
Good news about the repeaters and the back to back being up and running. Are the repeaters / user radios on VHF or is everything on UHF? How many rigs are on the network?
Cheers from a sweltering Cape Town (36.5C in the office now and the hottest part of the day is still on it's way).
Bvudzi
Marc Lurie
29th Jan 2008, 15:58
Are you using a K&N or do you use those paper filters from Land Rover
The van's still under warrantee, so I'm using standard LR filters.
The repeaters are all VHF, but they're linked by UHF.
Marc
Roger Whittle
29th Jan 2008, 18:44
.................................................. ....
While we were in the workshops, Conkers suggested blowing out the air filter of the Landy with compressed air. I was quite amazed at how much dust came out of that filter. Just when you thought there couldn't be any more, another puff of air, and another billow of dust. :eek:
You see, that's why you took a steely eyed Series man with you Marc. :D
Conkers doesn't work in MegaHertz, he's calibrated in revolutions per hour. :)
Roger.
Marc Lurie
31st Jan 2008, 09:13
Here are a few more photos.
The titles should be self-explanatory. The explosives truck was an interesting little episode. There we were, driving behind this explosives truck (open back with boxes of explosives bouncing around) and Conkers is videoing it. It was only after a good while that we realised that this was probably a bloody stupid thing to be doing, and we got the heck away from him.
bvudzichena
31st Jan 2008, 12:53
Marc,
I never took you for a wearer of Realtree :D
Marc Lurie
31st Jan 2008, 13:20
I never took you for a wearer of Realtree :D
Only when I'm trying to hide. ;)
Marc Lurie
31st Jan 2008, 14:46
I forgot about this picture... We saw this F%%$@ed Pajero driving around. It must have rolled, but it's still in daily use. :eek:
adafish
1st Feb 2008, 18:26
heres some pics for home sick Conrad...Marc...this can happen:D
Marc Lurie
2nd Feb 2008, 05:47
Roger, you asked about the cost of getting here etc.
I've done most of my paperwork and so far it looks like fuel, accomodation, meals, and stuff that I bought in preperation for the trip (oils, a few spares, some roadside nibbly bits etc) has cost around R4000 and US$1500 so far, so I guess that's just over GBP1000. We still have to get home though.
As it happens, things have proceeded slightly faster than I expected, and we may be leaving as early as this coming Wednesday. :yay:
My main client here is in such a shambles that I can't do much more for them until they get their act together, and that will take months.
The route home will probably go through Zambia, then Botswana. If it's possible I'd like to navigate between the pans at Makgadikgadi (how's that for a name Roger ;))
bvudzichena
2nd Feb 2008, 07:02
The route home will probably go through Zambia, then Botswana. If it's possible I'd like to navigate between the pans at Makgadikgadi (how's that for a name Roger ;))
Clarkson...
Roger Whittle
2nd Feb 2008, 12:46
.................................................. .....
As it happens, things have proceeded slightly faster than I expected, and we may be leaving as early as this coming Wednesday. :yay:
.................................................. ............................................
The route home will probably go through Zambia, then Botswana. If it's possible I'd like to navigate between the pans at Makgadikgadi (how's that for a name Roger ;))
What are you going to do with Conkers? He's set for months away or has he so fallen for the place that he's looking for a permanent job? :D
Clarkson...
Exactly - let's hope Marc and Conrad are a bit more responsible about going across that place. :)
Roger.
bvudzichena
3rd Feb 2008, 17:31
Marc,
Were your repeater sites damaged by the earthquake?
Marc Lurie
3rd Feb 2008, 17:40
Marc,
Were your repeater sites damaged by the earthquake?
Earthquake?
seekingserenity
3rd Feb 2008, 17:42
Marc , please would you bring one of these (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_River_Hog) back with you? Bvudzi needs something to shoot and my dogs are feeling vulnerable... ;)
bvudzichena
3rd Feb 2008, 17:45
Earthquake?
Don't tell me you slept through this (http://news.sky.com/skynews/article/0,,30200-1303775,00.html?f=rss)?
The DRC beer must be potent stuff :D
Marc Lurie
3rd Feb 2008, 19:01
Don't tell me you slept through this (http://news.sky.com/skynews/article/0,,30200-1303775,00.html?f=rss)?
The DRC beer must be potent stuff :D
That's over 1000km away. Would you feel an earthquake that happened in Bloemfontein?
But yes, the DRC beer is potent,... and it comes in 600ml bottles. :)
Marc Lurie
3rd Feb 2008, 19:10
Marc , please would you bring one of these (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_River_Hog) back with you? Bvudzi needs something to shoot and my dogs are feeling vulnerable... ;)
Sorry Michelle,
Once again, we are about 1000km away from where that hog lives. The Congo is roughly the same size as western Europe. It's like asking someone in Greece to bring you a German sausage. :D
Katanga, the area we're in, is VERY different from the rain forests of the interior.
Looks like you're having an interesting time! Thanks again for the regular updates! So is Conkers going to stay out longer then after the trip???
H
Marc Lurie
6th Feb 2008, 17:12
Here's a few more pics from Conkers...
I love the picture of the "restaurant" :D
I love the picture of the "restaurant" :D
I wonder what's on special :rolleyes: .
Roger Whittle
6th Feb 2008, 21:59
I recognise that fridge in the last photograph. :D Is that wave guide with an 'N' type coonector on it Marc?
Roger.
Marc Lurie
7th Feb 2008, 18:09
I recognise that fridge in the last photograph. :D Is that wave guide with an 'N' type coonector on it Marc?
Roger.
Nope. It's ordinary bog-standard RG-213 coaxial cable.
Roger Whittle
8th Feb 2008, 19:42
Nope. It's ordinary bog-standard RG-213 coaxial cable.
Boring! :D
Roger.
Roger Whittle
10th Feb 2008, 10:59
Marc and Conkers have gone awfully quiet. I wonder if they really are on their way back via that Botswana desert I can't spell? :)
Roger.
Marc Lurie
10th Feb 2008, 15:41
HELLO ROGER. IS THAT LOUD ENOUGH? ;)
We've left the Congo and we're still in Zambia. Currently we're in Livingstone where we will be until at least tomorrow night because Brigid is flying up her to work for a week, and I want to see here before we leave for Botswana.
The border crossing into Zambia was quite an episode. We almols had to sleep in the no-man's land between the two border posts because the customs people go home at 4:30pm and we missed them by a few minutes. Our man at the border, Eric, managed to get Ben Franklin to peruade them to work overtime for about an hour though, and we made it through.
We stayed at a lovely little guest house outside Kitwe run by a Zambian lady named Connie. She was fascinated by the two mzungus who wanted to camp in her garden :) We ended up taking two rooms. Adquate, quiet, and in very pretty surroundings. Dinner was a quick braai with T bone steak and tilapia. :)
Last night I was starting to think about rough camping in the bush because there weren't any suitable accomodations to be seen anywhere (Near Monze, on the road to Livingstone). But Africa has a knack of surprising just as well as she disspoints. Just before sundown we saw a sign to a campsite which turned out to be a lovely spot. Cold beer, hot water, clear skies and tranquility.
We had a dinner of steak and steak, with steak on the side, followed by a desert of steak with steak sauce, and a nice steak.;)
We're now at a small camp upstream from the Victoria Falls. We've just finished a nice braai with fresh potatos and onions, rump steak, beer and peri-peri sauce.
So, we should be in Botswana on Tuesday.
I'll keep you posted.
Henk Coetzee
10th Feb 2008, 16:02
So, we should be in Botswana on Tuesday.
I'll keep you posted.
Botswana has great steaks!
We're now at a small camp upstream from the Victoria Falls. .
Are you at Maramba River Lodge?
adafish
10th Feb 2008, 21:07
We had a dinner of steak and steak, with steak on the side, followed by a desert of steak with steak sauce, and a nice steak.;)
I'll keep you posted.....sounds like my house.....have you no boil in the bag "HOTPOT"...
Roger Whittle
10th Feb 2008, 23:00
HELLO ROGER. IS THAT LOUD ENOUGH? ;)
.................................................. ....................................
So, we should be in Botswana on Tuesday.
I'll keep you posted.
Ah - ooo, yes thanks Marc, now I've got my hearing aid tuned properly. :rolleyes:
I see that Ben Franklin is a popular and influential bloke in those parts. :D We didn't seem to need him in Lesotho?
And we're hanging on every word - say Hi to Conrad for us.
....sounds like my house.....have you no boil in the bag "HOTPOT"...
:LAA: :rotfl:
The last braai we had on the Lesotho trip Ada, was a slab of beef the size of a pair of size twelve shoes, but there the footwear analogy ends. Mike Carver braai'd it to perfection and it was the most succulent and flavoursome beef I have ever tasted. The Sarf Efrikans do do beef. :D
Roger.
Marc Lurie
12th Feb 2008, 20:10
Are you at Maramba River Lodge?
Yup :)
Marc Lurie
12th Feb 2008, 20:19
I see that Ben Franklin is a popular and influential bloke in those parts. :D We didn't seem to need him in Lesotho?
It's really not necessary in Lesotho. The border crossing is tame, and we broke no rules, so there was no reason for Ben Franklin to have a chat with the public servant. ;)
We're now back in SA. :yay:
We drove through Botswana but there was no iternet coverage. The Makgadigadi Pans are waterloged, so not even Clarkson could get through. We did a LOOOOOOONG boring drive through to Martin's Drift, and we're now at Punda Maria in the Kruger Park.
I thought it might be a good opportunity to check out he Pafuri crossing into Mozambique for future use, and besides, Conrad hasn't seen a Zebra yet.
Bottom line: I love Punda! :D I bet the translation of that wouldn't pass the forum smut detectors... :D:D:D
It's only when you get back to Sa from a place like the Congo when ou fully appreciate things like flushing toilets, electicity, fresh water, and Coke Light. ;)
bvudzichena
12th Feb 2008, 20:27
Bottom line: I love Punda! :D
Poena, Boetie, Poena :D:D:D
I won't tell if you won't tell...
Steve HNZ
12th Feb 2008, 21:21
Of course Punda could be the Swahili word for Zebra IIRC but having been to see a stand up comedian in Capetown many years ago named Jo Parker (again IIRC) I know what punda can mean in SA :D:D:D
Is he still about or did someone named Van de Merwe shoot him?:D:D
Thanks for your reports Marc, they've been great.
Steve
Roger Whittle
13th Feb 2008, 00:13
.................................................
I thought it might be a good opportunity to check out he Pafuri crossing into Mozambique for future use, and besides, Conrad hasn't seen a Zebra yet.
.................................................. ...............;)
What? No MFZ's :D
What wild life have you seen on the trip?
By the way, has Africa 'got' Conrad like it did Andy and I? :)
Roger.
Bottom line: I love Punda! :D
electicity,
Don't we all :D .
What electricity?
conkers
24th Feb 2008, 08:34
Well some how I survived and I'm back under the protection of Daisy the JRT. It was an incredible adventure and Africa is a beautiful and mysterious if totally exasperating and frustrating place at times it makes the mind boggle, if any one from the UK can get over there to meet the African forumeers don't hesitate see this thread http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php?t=111726. A huge thank you to Marc for taking me along to see parts of Africa most people can only imagine about . Also thank you Brigid, Kevin and Shirley for looking after me in Jo'burg:). I'm counting the days to get to Mozambique!!
Marc
We are going to have to keep an eye on the level of the Limpopo somehow and if need be hot foot it through much lower near Letaba near Massingir Dam if the level is too high. I don't think there is another way across except by coming back down the Kruger to near Letaba which would be a big waste of time and distance.
My daughter, Loren, is coming along. Steven and Chantal also would like to join us. I might need a berth in one of the accompanying Land Rovers.
Marc Lurie
25th Feb 2008, 19:10
Marc
We are going to have to keep an eye on the level of the Limpopo somehow and if need be hot foot it through much lower near Letaba near Massingir Dam if the level is too high. I don't think there is another way across except by coming back down the Kruger to near Letaba which would be a big waste of time and distance.
My daughter, Loren, is coming along. Steven and Chantal also would like to join us. I might need a berth in one of the accompanying Land Rovers.
Yup, we'll have to get in contact with someone nearby to see about the water level. It's amazing how quickly it can drop though.
BTW, this is completely the wrong thread for this trip ;)
I'm sure that space will be found for them. That's great... the more the merrier. :)
Y
BTW, this is completely the wrong thread for this trip ;)
Whoooops. My mistake.:o
Marc Lurie
26th Feb 2008, 19:41
Whoooops. My mistake.:o
Smackies for Kev. ;)
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