Swivel housing 200tdi. Do I rebuild???

[Discoveryhunter]

Just rebuilt the hub assembly starting with a new swivel ball, bearings, seals etc. and have it back on the ground.
The problem is that I just realised that I tightened the lower swivel pin bolts to the torque setting of the ABS model. 16lbs ft when it should've been 58.
The assembly was damn near perfect apart from this and I used thread lock compound.
So here the question. Do I leave be and keep an eye on it, or patially strip down to gain access to tighten the nuts, risking over pressurising the swivel ball or do I strip completely and start again?

A classic case of measure twice, cut once :-)

Bit of a newbie but loving the disco!!

[Swingletree]

Strip it and do it again properly mate,
It won't take you as long second time around because you've done it once already, and, you'll know that it has been done properly and you won't have to worry about it.

[thebiglad]

Just rebuilt the hub assembly starting with a new swivel ball, bearings, seals etc. and have it back on the ground.
The problem is that I just realised that I tightened the lower swivel pin bolts to the torque setting of the ABS model. 16lbs ft when it should've been 58.
The assembly was damn near perfect apart from this and I used thread lock compound.
So here the question. Do I leave be and keep an eye on it, or patially strip down to gain access to tighten the nuts, risking over pressurising the swivel ball or do I strip completely and start again?

A classic case of measure twice, cut once :-)

Bit of a newbie but loving the disco!!

I don't mean to be funny, but can't you get access to thes swivel pin retaining bolts just by jacking up, taking off the wheel and there you are - access to both top and bottom swivel pin retaining bolts.

Take one bolt off at a time, re threadlock and torque up correctly. Can't see the need for a strip down, from memory.

I did this job on my wife's Tdi 200, that's why I'm posing the question:o;)

[Swingletree]

The problem with just re-torqueing the bolts is that it will affect the swivel preload. It needs to be set correctly or you'll
a) be overloading the PAS pump and prematurely wearing the swivel bearings.
b) suffer from loose steering (constantly over correcting/too light) and prematurely wear the swivel bearings.

Go on, you know it makes sense, (if a jobs worth doing an all that)

[bilge rat]

just re torque the bottom two . iff your worried drop the steering arms off and check the pre load with a spring ballance...alan...

[Discoveryhunter]

Yeah, it's getting the preload reset thats my biggest worry. I think stripping it as far as the swivel housing and disconnecting the track rod and drag link will give me access without any other forces for setting the preload.
Was hoping someone would reply saying 'aye, nae bother, its fine as it is'.

No such luck!!

[bilge rat]

to be honest once its tight, how tight it is. aint going to alter the preload, you'll soon know iff its too tight when you come out a corner the wheel will need help to centralize , iff its too loose you;ll get the colly wobbles through the steering when you hit a hole or something..alan....

[stevenA]

In my understanding, the lower torque has no impact on the preload - the bearing sits in the housing and the lower pin is just that.

The upper pin actual loads both bearings.

BTW, on a 300tdi, the torque figures quoted in Haynes are way to high for the countersunk allen heads that the swivels use - most socket allen keys twist well before the specified torque!

So if it was clean, loctited, and well tight, I would leave the lower ones.

[Discoveryhunter]

Thinking about the design of the upper and lower pin I can understand why it is only the upper that has any effect on the bearing pressure.

Think I'm gonna keep an eye on it just now. There is also locking tabs around the bolt heads so I should be able to see if there's any movement.

Thanks for everyones input.

If any of you are good with the handbrakes then I'd appreciate any advice on my other thread.

Cheers
Steven