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Bob R
7th Oct 2008, 17:08
Hi All.
The right hand oil seal where the inboard drive shaft joint exits the IRD needs replacing on my 2001 TD4. I've done a search on the forum and not found this one before so it doesn't seem a common problem. (Sorry if it is there somewhere, but as the search feature won't accept "words" as short as three letters it wouldn't look for IRD or oil but I expect someone knows how to get round that one - I did try oilseal, driveshaft etc. )

The LR manual tells you to remove the ABS sensor, brake caliper and the drive shaft from the hub and then use a special clamp around the inboard tripod joint to lever between it and the IRD casing to prise the shaft out of the IRD.

I would be grateful for any tips from people who have "been there and done that" before I attempt this job myself. Pitfalls I can see are:
1 - seized ABS sensor or do they come out easily?
2 - undoing the drive shaft nut (very high torque specified plus the nut is staked)
3 - getting the shaft out of the hub - does this require an extractor or large hammer technique?
4 - How difficult is it to get the inboard driveshaft joint out of the IRD without the LR special tool?
4 - Finally can you get enough access to the IRD seal to remove the old one and properly fit the new one without the LR oil seal alignment tool specified in the manual?
5 - what have I missed?

Look forward to hearing from anyone who has done this before.

Bob

lawson
7th Oct 2008, 17:16
Hi bob firstly are you doing this on the floor or do you have a ramp. It will de difficult on the floor but will be able to be done.

Bob R
7th Oct 2008, 17:23
Hi - floor/axle stands but I'm getting old and decrepid otherwise I would be getting on with it without asking first!

Bob

lawson
7th Oct 2008, 17:38
You will need help with a couple of bits so make sure there is a second pair of hands. Right firstly is lots easier if you remove the undertray and plastic side cover on the ds. then remove the dsf wheel put an axle stand under the jacking point on the sill. This is the hardest bit of the whole job next you need to remove the bottom arm ball joint nut (you will probably need to put a jack under the ball joint to stop it spinning when loosening and tightening). once the nut is off somehow pull the bottom arm down and get someone to pull the whole hub outward one out enough let the arm come back up. At this point get a pry bar or big flat screw driver and where the driveshaft goes into the IRD put the screw driver in and try to pop the shaft out it will probably be a bit tight but keep shocking it and it will come out ( oil will also come out), ones its popped out pull the hub outward and guide the shaft out. Then simply replace the seal it should go in flush. Carefully refit everything and top up the IRD. Hope this helps Lawson:D:D

Bob R
7th Oct 2008, 18:47
Thanks for that. I had wondered if it was really necessary to remove the shaft from the hub.

Has everyone else who has done this job used this technique?

lawson
7th Oct 2008, 19:54
The dealer i work in i think everyone uses this way

Bob R
7th Oct 2008, 20:17
Thanks Lawson. I just need to find that extra pair of hands now.

Bob R
12th Oct 2008, 09:26
Just to say thanks for the advice - Job's done.

For the record you can do it alone but I had to make up a device to force the lower wishbone down to clear the balljoint from the hub carrier. Also in my case the balljoint taper didn't want to come out of the hub carrier and you can't get an extractor in without removing the driveshaft (which is what this technique is intended to avoid).
I managed to get it out by preloading the joint using its nut to jack against a bar wedged against the hub carrier then shocking the area around the joint taper.
I also found that removing the engine torque reaction stay and its mounting bracket made it much easier to get to the IRD seal.

Thanks again

Bob

lawson
12th Oct 2008, 11:23
Well done bob:D:D

Norn Irelander
14th Oct 2008, 09:13
Just done this job at the weekend, driveshaft nut or ball joint do not need to come off as you would think. :eek: :biggrin:


Just undo the two strut bolts on the suspension, let the hub and disc hang down on the ball joint. The newer models shouldhave the same setup??


pop the driveshaft from the IRD with a junior bolster:D

royco
7th Jul 2009, 20:00
You will need help with a couple of bits so make sure there is a second pair of hands. Right firstly is lots easier if you remove the undertray and plastic side cover on the ds. then remove the dsf wheel put an axle stand under the jacking point on the sill. This is the hardest bit of the whole job next you need to remove the bottom arm ball joint nut (you will probably need to put a jack under the ball joint to stop it spinning when loosening and tightening). once the nut is off somehow pull the bottom arm down and get someone to pull the whole hub outward one out enough let the arm come back up. At this point get a pry bar or big flat screw driver and where the driveshaft goes into the IRD put the screw driver in and try to pop the shaft out it will probably be a bit tight but keep shocking it and it will come out ( oil will also come out), ones its popped out pull the hub outward and guide the shaft out. Then simply replace the seal it should go in flush. Carefully refit everything and top up the IRD. Hope this helps Lawson:D:D
Could you comment on
1. getting that damn nut off.
2. getting out theABS sensor.
They are both really tight.

lawson
7th Jul 2009, 20:32
Which nut are you on about? and why are you removing the abs sensor what job are you doing.

royco
8th Jul 2009, 11:53
Which nut are you on about? and why are you removing the abs sensor what job are you doing.

Thanks for response
Main drive shaft retaining nut(300 lb.ft) 1/2" x 24" breaker bar wont budge it. 30 deg bend with me bouncing on the end.
Removing the complete RH drive shaft to investigate noise from front end.
The hand book says remove the sensor.
Thanks again for reply.

lawson
8th Jul 2009, 17:08
At work the nut would be removed with a air gun but a 1/2" breaker should shift it. Try spraying with WD40 and leave for a while and put a strong tube over the bar but carefull the bar doesnt break. As for the ABS sensor dont remove it as you dont need to and it wont come out in one piece and they cost a fortune.