warning lights on dash

[g3gsb]

Hi, I have got 2 amber warning lights showing on my dash when driving. The lights come on for 5 mins and then go off and then come back on again.

The 2 amber lights are:

Traction control - amber
Hill decent control (HDC) 'failure' - amber

I have only noticed these since we have been having the very cold weather.

Has anyone had the same trouble and is it something to worry about???
I was wondering if they can be reset??

any advice would be great.

cheers :o

[robbie77]

I had this a lot in the warm weather of the summer, but the missus said it happened yesterday too!
There is a bit about it in the owners handbook i think.
It just means that you don't have the use of traction control or hill decent control. As long as you don't go gunning it on ice or gravel or around corners you should be fine.
In general, amber lights are an advisory and red lights are a warning of a major failing/safety issue
Robbie

[g3gsb]

Hi, having done lots of research on forum sites and google etc it appears that that the problem i have is a faulty brake pedal switch. Reading some of the posts can anyone advice me on whether it's worth changing the Pedal switch and the relay?? or does it come as a complete unit??

It seems a cheap fix hopefully.

Cheers:)

[bill2]

i would change the pedal switch my self ,think you can get them for ten pounds if you shop around

[g3gsb]

yes i think i will. they are £10 on ebay.

[g3gsb]

Just something to add to this thread. I was driving today in normal conditions and the 2 lights came up on my dash (HDC Failure) (TC). Upon reasearch it seems to be a comon issue with a faulty brake light switch located on the pedal. As a test I applied quick harsh pressure to the brake pedal to see if the light would go out and they did.

So, it is a problem with my brake light switch. I have one on order and have the instructions to fit it too so will keep this thread updated with the prgress.

[slainegod]

many instances of the HDC/ABS/TC lights illumination are a failure of (yes the brake pedal switch) and the longitudinal acceleration sensor assy.this calculates the rate of 'G' when braking and is fundamental to the ABS ecu calculation.
costs about £60, is located on the floor pan to the rear of the handbrake assy, easily replaced.though, you will have to have it calibrated using an appropriate tool.takes 5 minutes at the garage with T4 or autologic equipment so keeping down costs;)

[g3gsb]

I have the brake pedal switch on order so is that a simple plug out/in job? do you think it's worth changing first?

Cheers :)

[slainegod]

simple plug 'n' play
if its the g sensor though will require diagnostic aid

[freewill]

HI Guys,

I have just had a the same problem with the two dash warning lights, it happened for the first time just after I had new front pads fitted. The fault was intermittent for a few days, but it hasn't recurred for several weeks now. I assumed it was related to the new brake pads, but is ok now that they have "bedded in".

Am I being foolish here and is there something more serious that I should be aware of?

[rikib]

yes i think i will. they are £10 on ebay.

Can you provide a link to the ebay list?

[g3gsb]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY-2-BRAKE-PEDAL-LIGHT-SWITCH_W0QQitemZ220311168088QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_ CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item2203111680 88&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1299%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C 240%3A1318

[g3gsb]

Sorry forget the link above, that is for the discovery. here is the link for the Freelander:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370112145844&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fshop.ebay.co.uk%3A80%2F%3F_from%3D R40%26_trksid%3Dm38%26_nkw%3D370112145844%26_sacat %3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1

[g3gsb]

HI Guys,

I have just had a the same problem with the two dash warning lights, it happened for the first time just after I had new front pads fitted. The fault was intermittent for a few days, but it hasn't recurred for several weeks now. I assumed it was related to the new brake pads, but is ok now that they have "bedded in".

Am I being foolish here and is there something more serious that I should be aware of?

Not too good on the technical stuff maybe slainegod can help.

[slainegod]

well...
if it's s re-occurring theme
there is an enormous amount of info on the teves Mk 20 and Mk 25 systems that was never released to the general public regarding the ABS system on the freelander
the problems are:
upto 700 lines worth....
corrosion on the terminals at the ABS modulator, the block
pump voltage supply problems
brake pedal switch production faults
'g' sensor failures
ok ok ok
after supporting a lot of garages & engineers..
don't panic, don't give up or sell out...
still a lot of motor for the money
people say freelander is simple and stupid but theres a lot more going on under the skin than you first see
if it's the g sensor it's an easy replacement but requires a diagnostic tool to calibrate.
don't be put off by anyone saying 'it's not eobd or compliant...bulls***
tell you what...
new brake pads..ok, i've only ever seen reset faults on the L322 after replacement...thats the new rangie
theres little to go wrong, and if it does the only sticky point as i said is the calibration.
the modulator, pads, brake pedal switch can all be replaced without diagnostics
if hte fault re-occurs, study why..
ok if it's a really early system...say 99 to 2001
it's a possible seperate ecu
this aint so good
its gonna require a replacement unit as per technical bulletin from LR
expensive:(
though any later than this, the ECU is'piggyback' on the modulator assy
the only sh1t with this is shuttle valve switch faults and g sensor(external)
I'll discuss this fault on the DiscoII forum
tell me exactly where /what the fault is and i'll try and help
regards
Tim(aka slainegod, bka LR tech )

[rikib]

HI Guys,

I have just had a the same problem with the two dash warning lights, it happened for the first time just after I had new front pads fitted. The fault was intermittent for a few days, but it hasn't recurred for several weeks now. I assumed it was related to the new brake pads, but is ok now that they have "bedded in".

Am I being foolish here and is there something more serious that I should be aware of?

Hi mate, just to give you an update on my prob, it turns out it was the connection between the starter motor and the alternator which was causing my problem.

The crimp clip which connected to starter has completely corroded and was not tight on the thread (which had un-threaded at the base???) therefore it was creating a loose connection. Only noticed it yesterday when I smelt a burning smell from the font of the engine. Whipped off the cover and the wires were burning away.

Therefore, there was only an intermittent return from the alternator to charging the battery (explains why when I and RAC guy checked the return feed it appeared okay!) but because of the loose connecton the ecu was reading all sorts of faults and this in turn caused the lights to come on.

Anyhew, stuck a nut at the base of the thread to lock it off, re-crimped the batt-starter wire, bought a new wire for the connection from starter to alternator (£3.50 from local motor factor) and jum started the car then checked all the readings on multimeter. All good, all fixed. Took for a good hour long run and no probs.........

So before spending any money replacing parts/getting a garage to look etc, remove the enigine cover and check the connections from the battery to the starter and the starter to alternator. If they are corroded or loose then replace/tighten and see if that resolves the problem.

Hope this is of help to someone :cheers:
Riki

[g3gsb]

Glad you sorted it out Riki, well done :biggrin:

I have fitted a new brake pedal switch this afternoon and its very easy to do. No warning lights as yet but only time will tell.

Will keep updated.

Cheers
Grant:)