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DISCO71
27th Jan 2009, 00:45
Can this be sorted by a weld and plate , thanks

ROB 110 HICAP
27th Jan 2009, 08:29
don't see why not, but others will know for certain (MOT?) but I know you can get a complete floor to weld in for about £100

Swingletree
27th Jan 2009, 09:30
Might as well get the complete floor IMHO, I've heard you can just put them in with a sealant type glue. (Don't quote me on that though).

DISCO71
27th Jan 2009, 10:34
Why would it be a MOT problem i will get a new rear plate ( oneday lol :D ) but i need shocks steering box ect so get that done first .

ROB 110 HICAP
27th Jan 2009, 10:37
dunno, maybe ok, but as i don't know for certain.....

Swingletree
27th Jan 2009, 10:42
Why would it be a MOT problem i will get a new rear plate ( oneday lol :D ) but i need shocks steering box ect so get that done first .

Its an MOT fail if there is substantial rust within a certain distance (30cm?) of a structural member or suspension mounting.

tycroes48
27th Jan 2009, 10:51
Why would it be a MOT problem i will get a new rear plate ( oneday lol :D ) but i need shocks steering box ect so get that done first .

Get your new floor here in Liverpool, only £58.70




https://www.connectstores.com/lr/sp_31447.html

DISCO71
27th Jan 2009, 11:04
but it would be nowhere near 30cm to structrual member or mounting i think i was told £150 to put new plate in thats why i trying to save this one for now

Satancom
27th Jan 2009, 11:07
Its an MOT fail if there is substantial rust within a certain distance (30cm?) of a structural member or suspension mounting.

Or seatbelt mounting.. which is usually the problem on the disco boot floor!

TEMPL4R
27th Jan 2009, 13:00
Yep, measure the distance from the seatbolt bolt to the start of the corrosion. If it's 30cm or under, it's a fail

Chris

dave_wales
27th Jan 2009, 16:56
Or seatbelt mounting.. which is usually the problem on the disco boot floor!

that was what mine failed on, but i welded a plate in for now until the summer when i will replace the floor :), the joys of working out side in the cold eh lol :biggrin:

DISCO71
27th Jan 2009, 17:59
This is what as been done today just needs a coat of paint

TEMPL4R
27th Jan 2009, 18:32
I think you will find that is rejected if the welds are in the 30cm area.


- The repair must be virtually as strong as the original structure

So only a continuous seam weld is acceptable for patch repairs, (even if the patch extends beyond the prescribed area) although spot welded joints are acceptable where they originally existed. (provided the original defective panel flange has been removed)

Stitch or plug welding is acceptable as an alternative to spot welding in these cases.

Fill in the gaps.

On repairs to Prescribed areas, all welds must be continuous.

Chris

DISCO71
27th Jan 2009, 19:02
so your saying its no good

TEMPL4R
27th Jan 2009, 19:22
No, read the pasted bit in the above post, that is from the Testers manual.

Put a tape measure on the seatbelt mounts and any body mounts, if any part of the plate is within 30cm, it must be continous welding.

I'm not sure that most people understand the regs properly, but a professional repairer should know them.

If the patch repair is in the prescribed area, it must be seam welded on all sides.
If a prescribed area panel is replaced, it can be spot welded if it was originally spot welded, but the old panel must be fully removed.

(If you repair the bulkhead, the drivers side must be fully seam welded, the passenger side doesn't have to be in some places.)

You cannot braze or bolt a plate on a prescribed area.

For the extra time it takes and you get a better, stronger job, try to continuous weld all patches out of habit.

Chris