Td5 2000 Manual Disco steering problem.

[HarryD]

Recently my Disco has developed some disturbing characteristics when cornering. The steering goes slightly lighter once into the turn and needs a "twitch" to get it back on track. It's a bit like trying to balance peas on a knife. No steering wobble through the steering wheel, just a slight "vagueness".
There are no obvious PAS leaks and the level in the reservoir remains constant.
Quite coincidentally, the ACE system has had it's rearmost 2 pipes renewed due to corrossion. The problem started after this. The ACE system was bled again today and there are no leaks.
I thought that there may be some fluid contamination but then saw that both systems use the same fluid anyway. The front anti roll bar had new bushes approx 6 or 7 months ago.
The vehicle hasnt been off road and a visual check of the trackrod and ends seems fine. Tyre pressures are spot on. Road surfaces are generally good and for the most part, dry.
Performance upgrades have been in place for quite some time with no adverse affects.
The car is powered round the bends and not allowed to drift or coast.
Springs, shocks are standard and the vehicle isnt "lifted".

Any ideas anyone?

[andymach23]

Hi

Interested in any replies to this. My TD5 steering sounds the same. Mine is light and floaty with very little feel when cornering. It gets worse as I speed up a bit and follows imperfections in the road. If I drop my tyre pressures down to about 23 psi, the steering feels much better. I have had a recent alignment done and have no play at the steering wheel.

I was wondering if the steering damper could be at fault but from doing research on this, it seems like the damper is only there to deflect off road shocks and shouldn't really come into play for normal road driving. Not sure about that though.

Cheers

Andy

[HarryD]

Sorted this earlier today.
O/S/F track rod end had 2mm or so play in it. This is the end that is crimped on so needed a new track rod assembly.
After that, the earlier problem was found to be gone.
Amazing deterioration from 2mm or so of play.

[andymach23]

Hi Harry

Thanks for letting me know. The track rod ends keep coming up as being the culprit. I'll maybe bite the bullet and leave mine in to an independant and have it checked.

I had a look myself but it's so difficult to spot anything and as you say, 2 mm has made a big difference.

Maybe I'll just buy the track rod assembly and have a crack at fitting it myself.

Did you fit yours yourself Harry?

If so was it a straightforward job?

I suppose an alignment will be required afterwards, unless it's possible to set the new assembly up the same as the old one?

Glad you got yours sorted.


Cheers

Andy

[jobo]

count how many turns it took to get the old one off, and put the new one the same, that will get it close enough to drive, after that it wont cost much to get it spot on a tyre place

the hard bit is cracking the old ones, but you can get a tool for it for about a fiver, or if they, or you, are really tight, jack them up and hit them with a big hammer

[HarryD]

Andy, as Jobo says, if you keep the wheels still and count the thread "flats" on the assembly once off the car (setting up new one the same), that should be ok. As for being easy, if you have the right tools it's great, but it can be a bit of a sod unless you have a ramp to get at it all easily. Nyloc on the threads can make removal a bit of a pig.
If getting the assembly, stress the need for new nuts as they dont necessarily come with it and you could be sitting in limbo and up a creek without a paddle.
I had a friendly garage I use do it all. Took them less than an hour.
Yes, you can do it with the correct tools, but I would suggest that if you cant work comfortably and safely in an environment where you can guarantee keeping the wheels straight whilst you do the removal/fitting, take it to an independent.
My garage does work at £25 ph so why would I want to struggle doing it myself? LOL.

[jobo]

not sure why you think its difficult or indeed why you think you need to keep the wheel straight or why you need a hoist

any flat surface will do

quick guide

jack up

take wheel off

put the wheel and a or the spare under axle

knock lock nut on track arm loose

take nut off track rod

put trolley jack under track rod

jack it up so it just takes the weight of the disco on the track rod about half inch of the tyres

hit track rod firmly with 3lb lump hammer

track falls off

unscrew track rod whilst counting turns

put it all back again

10 mins a side with a fag break