Propane Gas Leak Detection.

[Beedoc]

After going through 47Kg bottles of propane at an alarming rate and not being able to find a leak, I am wondering if anyone has had dealing with the device, a Bubble Gas Leak Detector, as in the link below?

http://www.tcschandlery.co.uk/8903/TCS-Chandlery-Bubble-Gas-leak-detector.html

I feel almost as though my supplier is using some gas before I get the bottles. I know it's been cold, but 14 years of living with the stuff and keeping a tab on how long the bottles last, means we have a good idea when they will run out, until now.
Thanks.

[90 finally]

rub washing up liquid on all the joints then look for bubbles

[g7jtk]

Washing up liquid is bad for the pipe and fittings but if you go to your local plumbers merchant they should be able to sell you a can of leak detector spray. It still needs wiping off when you are finnished.
The other way is to get a manometer capable of reading over 37 millibars ot the safest way is to get a gas safe regestered plumber qualifies for LPG to do it for you.

[SCOTT MCLAREN]

We use a none corrosive bubble spray in the AC industry - if you want I can send you a tin for the price of postage ! Another tip is to weigh the cylinder when you get it - the tare weight is stamped into the top somewhere so tare + 47kg = what you should have on your bathroom scales !
Scott - PM me if you want the spray !

[Beedoc]

We use a none corrosive bubble spray in the AC industry - if you want I can send you a tin for the price of postage ! Another tip is to weigh the cylinder when you get it - the tare weight is stamped into the top somewhere so tare + 47kg = what you should have on your bathroom scales !
Scott - PM me if you want the spray !

Hi, I have used the proper spray on all joints, it's the pipes that I can't get to I'm thinking may be at fault. It's a mobile home, caravan to you and me.
Thanks for all the replies.

[Beedoc]

Right.
I made my own manometer.
After equalizing the regulator and doing the test three times, at an hour a time and checking regularly, there was no deviation. No drop and no increase.
I reckon I have no leaks. I was pretty sure I hadn't, but this confirms it.
I shall now get a new regulator, as the one I'm using must be 10 years old or more.

[crusher]

you used to be able to get pressure gauges quite reasonable for these tests that fitted after the regulator...shut everything off then pressure up with gas then turn the bottle off again...register the pressure in the system and check 24 hrs later...if its dropped you have a leak...:rolleyes:

[JayHoe]

Not got a neighbour who is tapping into the line have ya???

:(

[CCKW353A1]

Back to weighing the cylinders. I have a feeling that calor are not very good at marking the tare weight on the cylinders, or they are not on the 13kg size.

[PHIL140701]

weight an empty one, then weight a full one minus the weight of the empty and hey presto weight of gas will be your answer :)

[tycroes48]

Have you checked the short rubber hose that connects the caravan to the cylinder. How old is the pipe, it should have the date of manufacture on it. In the past I have known them to become porous and leak like a sieve. Spray the rubber with thespecial aerosol and leave it overnight. If it`s porous it will be obvious.

[Beedoc]

Have you checked the short rubber hose that connects the caravan to the cylinder. How old is the pipe, it should have the date of manufacture on it. In the past I have known them to become porous and leak like a sieve. Spray the rubber with thespecial aerosol and leave it overnight. If it`s porous it will be obvious.

It was new a couple of years ago, but I will do what you suggest. But I'm sure I have no leak now - I think............

[g7jtk]

Right.
I made my own manometer.
After equalizing the regulator and doing the test three times, at an hour a time and checking regularly, there was no deviation. No drop and no increase.
I reckon I have no leaks. I was pretty sure I hadn't, but this confirms it.
I shall now get a new regulator, as the one I'm using must be 10 years old or more.

the test time for LPG is 5 mins temperature stableisation then 5 mins test with no loss of pressure and no smell of gas.

[Beedoc]

the test time for LPG is 5 mins temperature stableisation then 5 mins test with no loss of pressure and no smell of gas.

Thanks.
I had considered the temperature and kept it in the shade and allowed 2 mins initially, but on further tests, I'm a belts and braces man, 5 to 10 mins for settlement. Then kept an eye on it for nearly an hour over a couple of tests.
I'm actually doing it again now to be sure, Bank Holiday type of job!

[g7jtk]

Thanks.
I had considered the temperature and kept it in the shade and allowed 2 mins initially, but on further tests, I'm a belts and braces man, 5 to 10 mins for settlement. Then kept an eye on it for nearly an hour over a couple of tests.
I'm actually doing it again now to be sure, Bank Holiday type of job!

Does the water level stay put?

[Beedoc]

Does the water level stay put?

Within a biro mark.
Funnily enough, when I just hooked up the regulator on it's own, it dropped 1/8" over 15 mins, after allowing 5 mins to settle.
So out came the liquid and I've found bubbles round the reg-bottle union. They are very slow though.
But hook up the caravan and there is no drop!!!!:rolleyes: Incidentally, I do run the fire for a few seconds to equalize the regulator.

[g7jtk]

Think I would weigh the full bottles but a slow leak over a long time would loose a lot of gas.

[Beedoc]

I was thinking, should the open end of the manometer be closed before pressurizing to prevent changeable atmospheric pressure messing with the readings?
All my tests were done with it open, but I assume these mercury ones you can buy are closed. I can't see how a water one would work closed though.
No, it's got to be open... I think..........

[g7jtk]

NO' The other end of the manometer should be open. The gas pressure pushes the the water / mercury / whatever against atmospheric perssure.

[Beedoc]

After thinking it through more clearly, I realised that no way would it work closed on such a low pressure system.
I have actually sorted the problem today.
There was an intermittent leak on a compression joint. The pipework clips had eroded and the chickens, bless them, that continually play under the caravan were moving it about. That's why the first day the tests were fine, but yesterday and today the manometer was showing a leak. It was so tiny, you could hardly see a bubbling, but with a jiggle you could exacerbate it enough to bubble the liquid.
Unfortunately it was the last but one item (fire) I disconnected in the process of elimination. So after quickly getting the water heater, cooker and fire connected for tonight, I only have the lamps to do in case of a power cut (which can be quite often here).
As for the regulator, it was the bottle seat that was damaged, even the new one I got today leaked. At least I have a new regulator now and wow, it shows up the old one. Should have replaced it ages ago.
Thanks to all that contributed.

[g7jtk]

The rubber hoses might also need checking as they have an expiry date and can go brittle with age which can be the cause of leaks.
Testing order would be test everything if that fails turn everything off to test the pipework then turn the appliances one at a time testing as you go untill all appliances are turned on with no leaks and no smell of gas.

When I first started work I was looking for a gas leak in the builders cabin. The Ganger came in struck a match and ran it along the pipe untill a large flame shot across the room. What a knob. Saved a lot of time finding the leak though. :eek:

[Beedoc]

The rubber hoses might also need checking as they have an expiry date and can go brittle with age which can be the cause of leaks.
Testing order would be test everything if that fails turn everything off to test the pipework then turn the appliances one at a time testing as you go untill all appliances are turned on with no leaks and no smell of gas.

When I first started work I was looking for a gas leak in the builders cabin. The Ganger came in struck a match and ran it along the pipe untill a large flame shot across the room. What a knob. Saved a lot of time finding the leak though. :eek:

Hi,
The hose is only a couple of years old.
As I said above, thankfully I've sorted it. It wasn't until replacing the old regulator, that it gave enough pressure so that the bubble test was finally spotable.
It makes me think, what age should a regulator be replaced at? The water 'aint 'alf bleeding hot now!
Thanks.

[CCKW353A1]

It makes me think, what age should a regulator be replaced at?

Well in the case of Oxygen and acetylene regulators, when i did my BOC gas safety course a few years ago it was 5 yrs from manufacture date which in the case of BOC regulators are date stamped(in code) on the rear of the body.