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View Full Version : What condition is your chassis in? Disco 2



rickyrooo1
10th Aug 2009, 10:39
Hi all, spent most of saturday jet washing and then scraping off loose flaky rust etc off the chassis and associated areas i was quite surprised how much rust came off although the chassis still rings when you bang it so its not rotten by any standards (my series was a pear lol) anyway just got me thinkin what anyone elses was like, mine feb 2000 so its comin up ten years old, couple of things i did notice tho' missing the bump stops on the rear this is prob due to it having shot air springs when i got it and its prob been sat on them until they fell off? Ride height sensors are split at the bottom fixing points (cable tied on for now) and the spray deflectors under the wheel arches are quite rusty it wont take much to pop a hole in them but i guess they are cheap or i might patch them as they are not structural.

23skidoo
10th Aug 2009, 12:51
I have mine "professionally" undersealed about 5 years ago , and have already lined it up to go in for refurbishment in the autumn.

Its about the same as yours in age and like you a tad concerned at the first signs of rusty peripheral points again as sealing is starting to wear/wash off .

rickyrooo1
10th Aug 2009, 13:30
I have mine "professionally" undersealed about 5 years ago , and have already lined it up to go in for refurbishment in the autumn.

Its about the same as yours in age and like you a tad concerned at the first signs of rusty peripheral points again as sealing is starting to wear/wash off .

Out of interest, how much for a professional job? I must admit crawling under it did me no good on saturday, i was aching sunday lol, maybe a professional job is my best bet, where are you based? Or anyone know anywhere in staffs? Cheers.

listerdiesel
10th Aug 2009, 14:14
Ours looks OK at the front, but gets worse as you move towards the back. I think a bit of time spent this summer getting the worst off and something over the top before winter calls would be time well spent.

Peter

rickyrooo1
10th Aug 2009, 15:00
Ours looks OK at the front, but gets worse as you move towards the back. I think a bit of time spent this summer getting the worst off and something over the top before winter calls would be time well spent.

Peter

All mine have been like that, this no exception, i guess the oil leaks and grease flying off the prop keeps the front in check, wish i could afford that before and after thing you see advertised in landy mags but i think its dear.

rickyrooo1
10th Aug 2009, 15:09
Ours looks OK at the front, but gets worse as you move towards the back. I think a bit of time spent this summer getting the worst off and something over the top before winter calls would be time well spent.

Peter

Mine is like that and all my previous ones were too, its probably due to the oily bits leaking and the grease off the prop almost protecting the front half, i would say mine is rough from the front of the rear wheels back with the worst bit being the area behind the rear tyres, but as i say it still seems strong but due some paint and more pain to my knees and back lol.

rickyrooo1
10th Aug 2009, 15:13
I could have sworn i deleted that first quote and reply to expand a bit, not very good at posting on the net off a phone . . . . . .:D

23skidoo
10th Aug 2009, 15:37
I had mine done previously by Herts 4X4 as a condition of buying the car from them , so no idea what they would charge.

I am getting Kings Langley Land Rover to do it and its around 200 quid , that includes the complete steam clean prior to the job itself. I personally find that pretty reasonable considering It would probably take 2-3 days of blood sweat and tears (not including the nagging long afterwards for the mess I would make around the house) .

Its a job I would probably do myself for sure (and have in the past ) if I had the facilities to do it without hassle. And for that I would class a full ramp an absolute minimum , quite apart from the messiness of it , just to make sure you get into every crevice properly.

Tom Mepham
10th Aug 2009, 19:32
I had mine done previously by Herts 4X4 as a condition of buying the car from them , so no idea what they would charge.

I am getting Kings Langley Land Rover to do it and its around 200 quid , that includes the complete steam clean prior to the job itself. I personally find that pretty reasonable considering It would probably take 2-3 days of blood sweat and tears (not including the nagging long afterwards for the mess I would make around the house) .

Its a job I would probably do myself for sure (and have in the past ) if I had the facilities to do it without hassle. And for that I would class a full ramp an absolute minimum , quite apart from the messiness of it , just to make sure you get into every crevice properly.

Yes it is a very messy job and it is time consuming hard work!
I have treated our 2002td5 and 97300tdi- the disco 2 was in very good nick still ,just a little surface rust.
My treatment system (best done in warm dry weather), tried and tested now is- full under body pressure wash, leave to dry, spay everything (body chassis ect) inside and out with paraffin and engine oil mixed 50:50 until its dripping. Leave to soak, and apply another coat- normally get through about 1gallon per coat. This really penetrates any rust well, while its still wet apply waxoyl, black on external areas and clear on internal areas (cavities etc).
The clear stuff comes off ultimately with road spay as I found out.
Black stays on ok.
I found if you just apply waxoyl to a slightly "nutty" chassis the rust sucks all of the oily moisture out of the waxoyl, then the wax falls off!
By oiling it up first it makes a good clean, moisture free, primed surface and it lasts!
Have a look at my range of photos from the job on the disco2, done over the course of 5days. There is also some of my tdi, waxoyled the boot floor and foot wells.
Tom

js5d
11th Aug 2009, 17:32
Bought the endstops at paddock for £2.20 incl VAT when I got my airsprings. £2.20!! how can they make that so cheaply!

fitting easy, don't need to take wheels of and all, just something soft to lay on.

Clive H
11th Aug 2009, 21:16
I have just recoated my 1999 D2 with balck waxoil, after doing only 12 months ago, next time I will use your oil/parafin mix first.

I did notice that the front tube that the bottom of the bumber screws to has got some rot holes in it, it appears to be a water trap.

Clive