View Full Version : Steering Relay And Bottom Flange Fitment?
Got a slight problem... I've just fitted a new steering relay (ebay special) in a new(ish) galvanised chassis. With the relay tapped down far enough for the two top bolts to go though, I thought there would be enough relay poking out the under side for a relay flange to locate it. But the bottom of the relay is flush with the chassis with only the hex bolts showing below?
Does anybody know if there are any differences between series steering relays or makes? i.e. Have I got the wrong one or just a poor 'patten' part? Unfortunately I've had this one sitting on the shelf for about 6 months before I've come to use it. Is the securing flange fitted on all models? I thought it was and the relay doesn't seem to be a particularly tight fit at the bottom - not tight enough to be the main means of reaction from the steering forces.
21st Feb 2012, 20:58
I can't answer your question directly but on my truck the bottom of the relaysits inside the collar on the locating flange and sits proud of the chassis. The flange is needing replaced on mine so there is play at the bottom of the relay. It certainly doesn't make for pin sharp steering!
Thanks... I thought it should. Humm...
21st Feb 2012, 22:43
it should stick out about 1/4". i'd suspect the holes in the chasis may be in the wrong place. if the relay will drop down far enough. i'd file the holes and use substansial washers on the bolts. make sure the relay securing ring a a good fit on the relay. i.e. no movement. i had to cut and weld mine for the mot.
22nd Feb 2012, 15:12
My relay is out (SIII 109)so quick measurements:
Length of relay from end plate to end plate 162mm
Depth of hole in chassis (mine is old galvanised not original) 105 mm
Fitted it sticks out about 4-5mm
Depth of flange on relay chassis plate is 8 mm
I'm replacing plate with one from Tony on this site which is a solid machined plate of about 6mm thickness
Let me know if you need any other measurements.
I'm notorious for getting my measurments wrong so if appear completely out it will be me working in a foreign currency.
22nd Feb 2012, 20:20
I have the original relay in my shed...I fitted a new one...had the L/R from new....if you need a measurement let me know.
Thanks for the replies... much appreciated! It does look like the holes in the tabs on the chassis are too high up. If they where about 1/4" lower the top of the relay would seat down better and 1/4" would stick out below the cross member.
Might be a daft question, but how do I go about asking Tony for a price on one?
24th Feb 2012, 18:53
Mmmm so does the chassis look like its been welded up wrong.
25th Feb 2012, 18:15
Maybe your Galv chassis ia a bit out. Perhaps to save any reworkingto the holes that will damage the galvanising, would it be possible to fit the flange upside down?
25th Feb 2012, 19:11
Cant work out how to post link but search on "Relay location" and you should get Tony 109's post of him fitting the flange plus pictures and also of Snaggers fitting. To see whether Tony is still making them and cost just email Tony direct.
Yep :( Looks like the holes are too high on the tabs on the top of the front cross member... just approximately, there about 16.5mm centre height. Does this tally with anybody else's? The relay is also a tight fit between the tabs too - no bad thing really in moderation, but this is a little past that. Even when I elongate the holes I might need to do some fetteling to get it low enough!
I've PM'ed Tony so hopefully he's still making them!
25th Feb 2012, 23:17
Could you not just re drill them lower down.
26th Feb 2012, 02:01
Hi, Just saw that you maybe looking for a collar. The message you sent never arrived as my inbox was full.
For the relay locating flange to work, the relay does need to protrude below the surface of the chassis.
Since you have a glvanized chassis I personally wouldnt want to start cutting the chassis trying to drill the top holes lower, etc.
Have you got the original relay and is your new relay shorter? The options you have are a bit limited, if the new relay is shorter, then that is where the problem is. If the relay is the correct length then the problem is with the chassis.. Either way both problems are tricky.
What I would suggest is unscrewing the 4 bolts at the bottom of the relay and adding a thicker 6 or 8 mil base to the bottom of the relay, to ensure it protrudes out the bottom of the chassis. Then use 4 longer HT 1/4UNF bolts to reattach it to the relay. You can then use my relay locating collar to ensure it is fully located. Making the collar for the bottom of the relay is the tricky part. It must be the same diameter as the base of the relay and the 4 holes PCD must be exact.
With longer HT bolts it will be just as strong as the original and if the locating collar fits your new relay base tightly, you'll have a solid solution.
Seems a very unusual situation, so I suggest you double check your relays, if there is a difference in the height of the casings, you could either return the relay to your supplier with the original relay, show them the difference.. Or if you'd like, I could make you an 8mil collar to fit onto the bottom of your relay and a locating collar that'll locate the base of the relay to the chassis.
26th Feb 2012, 02:27
26th Feb 2012, 11:06
Tony would extending plate with a spacer not risk locating bolts fouling steering arm?
26th Feb 2012, 19:32
Yes I think you're right.. The steering arm is close as standard so extending wouldn't work...
Lets hope the relays are be different before thinking a solution
26th Feb 2012, 20:33
The missing measurement from mine - the plate bolted to the chassis for the top bolts - units in 20th of an inch.
26th Feb 2012, 22:19
Had a quick look at mine today and bolt when in hole is closer the bottom than top ,did not get time to take grill off to measure but here is a cropped photo from when I did rebuild. The second shows the base and I am suprised as it is only half way down the collar!
29th Feb 2012, 01:57
From your pics it is clear the relay protudes below the chassis with the top bolts in place. this is essentual for the relay location and clearance for the bottom drop arm.
29th Feb 2012, 09:44
Relay bolt holes are approx 13-14mm from top of front crossmember to the centre of bolt holes on my richards chassis (I've got the rad panel bolted in at the moment so difficult to get a very precise measurement) and my relay protrudes approx 1/4" below the crossmember.
Thanks for all the input on this!
Its taken me a few days to get around to getting around to it, but I've popped the relay back out...
The relay is 162mm from the top of the top flange to the bottom of the bottom flange.
The holes centres in the tabs are about 16mm above the chassis top face.
The hole centres on the relay are 40mm from the top of the top flange.
The chassis is 105mm thick.
So, relay holes from the bottom flange are 162-40 = 122mm. Chassis + tab hole centre = 105+16 = 121mm. Therefore the relay doesn't poke though!
Going on Kernite's 1/2" and Mud4fun's 13-14mm (thanks!) my holes are slightly high at 16mm and I'd get 3mm for the bottom retaining flange by elongating the holes down to 13mm. Perhaps I can drop the relay some more to get a full 1/4"... Seems the easiest plan to me and I've got some cold galvanising paint to touch it up.
Tony, could you let me know how much your billet retaining flanges are please?
Thanks again for all the help on this... very much appreciated. Toby
2nd Mar 2012, 00:26
Sounds like the best answer, to elongate the holes. From your pics the relay looked miles out. The problem I see is if you elongate the holes downwards by 3 mil or more, the relay could then move,or walk its self vertically up, and out of the bottom relay collar.. You must find a way to locate the relay once in its lower possition.
My heavier and tighter fitting Relay collars are £30 including bolts and postage.
If ok I'll send you a PM with details
Thanks Tony, could you send me the details please?
Once I've got the relay sitting low enough, I may be able to build up the top of the original hole with weld and then grind flush each side to stop the relay moving up again. I suspect that once the two retaining bolts are torqued up some something sensible it's not going to move anyway... but...
4th Mar 2012, 04:27
Theres alot of leverage on the relay and it will want to move given the slightest chance. If you had heavy gauge flat washers on both the head and nut side of each 'top' relay bolt you could weld them to the chassis. once the relay is bolted tightly into possition.
4th Mar 2012, 08:48
you could fit a peg in the washer to fit into the gap at the top of the bolt. this would save having to weld the chasis and destroy the galv finish.
5th Mar 2012, 01:21
The galv wil need to take a pounding from a file or drill to enlong the holes. You'd need to remove the galvanize from the washer area, if you were going to use washers and weld them in place. If you were to 'tak' weld the washers in place, you could then remove the relay again for the final welding. Then paint the zinc missing and welded area with 'Galvafroid' or zinc rich paint. Since you can get to both sides of the top relay brackets, rust should not be a mojor problem and can be easily painted when needed.
The relay location is rather more vital than the slight compromise in galvanize protection.
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