which one?

[actionslax]

hi folks.

been a while since i been here or done anything landyish..!

myself and my brothers are thinking about buying a rrc vouge se (not lse) mainly for towing a semi hefty double wheelbase trailer.

doing a bit of research first and where better to start than here! i've had a quick swatch at ebay and autotrader to get an idea of prices etc.

not looking to spend huge amounts of cash 1-1.5k at max but looking for something reliable, minimum maintanance costs etc etc. fuel costs not a concern as it will only be used from time to time.

just wanting to find out what the best year would be to go for, what to stay clear of and what we would get for the cash we have.

if any one has any opinions/info it would be grately apreciated!

cheers for now.
slax

[Highway_Star]

3.9 Hotwire EFi over 3.5 flapper type, works better and seems to be more reliable, there's also the wee bit extra oomph, which is nice.
True Vogue SE will have ABS, Leccy Leathers, Sunroof, Air Con, heated front screen etc all of which are nice when working, can be a right pig to fix. Don't be put off by an ABS light on permanently, most problems are down to sensor air gap or wiring problems, the actual electronics seem quite reliable. ABS relays are known sources of trouble, but pretty cheap.

4sp auto over 5 sp manual anyday! If I want to stir porridge, I will :p

The usual places for rust.
You're starting to see reasonably straight working examples, 90/91 for not a lot of money, which is an awful lot of car for your cash. Straight, tidy & un abused vehicles wil still fetch a premium price though.

If you're going to tow, I'd be budgeting for new springs, shocks & bushes, plus the A frame ball joint, on a RaRo that age they will be tired, replacement transforms the handling.

[actionslax]

I'd be budgeting for new springs, shocks & bushes, plus the A frame ball joint, on a RaRo that age they will be tired, replacement transforms the handling.

Thanks for the feeback Highway_Star.... cool, i'll pass on this info onto my brothers.

Just did a quick search to get an idea of how much the above will cost-

Rear A Frame Ball Joint £16.00
Springs - Standard FRONT - EACH - £14.00
Springs - Standard REAR - EACH - £14.00
Shocks Woodhead FRONT - EACH - £15.32
Shocks Woodhead REAR - EACH - £15.32
Complete Rubber Suspension Kit - £50.00

Looking at around 200 quid plus labour costs.

Do you know of any people/garages/places I could be checking around the central belt?

Cheers

Slax

[Highway_Star]

For working on them or selling them?

I don't get much work done to mine, tend to do it myself, however Fife Autocentre here in Dunfermline have been very helpful and reasonably priced for jobs that are too big for my small garage! £65 changed the A frame balljoint and the A frame bushes, took them a morning. I simply couldn't have done it.

Your best bet for buying one is private. Second hand car places don't have a clue about them.

[actionslax]

Sorry. Ye I missed that bit out..oops.. I meant selling.

cheers

slax

[EdinMac]

Welcome back stranger - what happened to that rather petroholic 90 of yours??

Ian

[actionslax]

hey ian..

been away for a while after i sold the 90......but oooo i been missing the ole landies since.... the ARC 90 seems to have changed hands a few times and is now for sale 'again' for a rather hefty amount over in the for sale section :eek: ..

Highway_star have another question.....

the auto gearboxes on the RRC. do they have a limited lifespan or are they heathly right through to 150k plus? and would you have any advice on how or what to listen/lookout for when test driving?

cheers again..

probably few more q's on the way.. :buck:

slax

[Highway_Star]

I assume you'r interested in the 4sp ZF? They are alleged to have a lifespan, but like anything else if it's looked after......

Mine is at 120000 and shows no signs of trouble, but I'm somewhat rectally retentive about fluid and filter changes.

The usual signs of trouble (and make sure you test drive a vehicle from cold) are; takes ages to change out of first until warm, slipping (tricky to spot), won't move off in anything other than D or R until warmed up, sticky selector and inoperative kickdown are other hassles, usually fixed by new cables or adjustment.

Have a look at the Ashcroft site, they know their stuff! http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/

Transfer case should shift easily, many dont' because they've never been used, if it's an LT230 diff lock should engage and disengage smoothly and quickly. If it's a BW type transfer box (nae diff lock) jack up a front wheel, with the transfer case in neutral you should be able to turn that lifted wheel, but it will be very hard work, you may need to use the wheelbrace. If you can't turn it at all the VC is siezed. If it turns easily something is broken!
Most Range Rovers of this age will have some transmission shunt or clunk, as long as it's not too bad, live with it. Nasty vibrations, squals or knocks (particularly when turning at low speed) could be UJs, sliding joints, or CVs. Nothing is unfixable, just depends on how time and money you have.
The LT230 transfer box can be a bit noisy, they tend to whine, the BW aer pretty quiet, when they get worn sometimes the drive chain breaks (just ask Bob!), again not a huge job to sort out.