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LEW153
21st May 2005, 19:38
Hi all, today I had in mind to service the LR, and that's what I did. The engine is now running smooth, on Shell Rimula X engine oil.

Having finished servicing the LR I engaged reverse gear to drive it out of the garage but I ended up with the gear lever playing freely and the gearbox still engaged in reverse. To add to that I had the landy half way down a slop. A good chain blocks helped me pull back the LR in the garage.

Now, I need some help from you mates. Anyone can suggest a good (does a great job and is not overpriced) mechanic? Secondly, is it something I can fix by dismantling the top plate of the gearbox from the cabin, or do I need to pul out the gearbox?

Also another problem I noticed, I can move the red lever from high to neutral position but I can't put it into low as it looks like it's stuck. Does that require the transfer case to be re-built?

Many thanks for you help...

R0Y
21st May 2005, 19:53
Sounds very much like the bottom end of the gear lever has come out of the selector shafts. No real way of telling other than to remove the yellow know, spring and cover plate and have a look inside with the aid of a torch. If you can move the gear stick and see that the end is adrift from the shafts then i'm afraid it's a matter of taking out the floor pans and gearbox tunnel giving you access to the four bolts that bolt the gear leaver in place, undo these, reset gear lever in shafts and the replace florr pans etc.

olo
22nd May 2005, 00:05
dunno bout a series, but on my kind of gearbox when i heard bout your same prob it was the grab screw (i think thats wot its called) at the bottom of the gear stick that went loose and wasn't really holdin the stick anymore.

is it the same system bhod?

R0Y
22nd May 2005, 00:45
No unfortunately not. The end of the gear stick isn't actually attached to anything, it just sits in there which is normal. What does happen though is that the rubber washer around the bottom becaomes worn allowing the bottom end of the stick to slip out (under certain conditions) of the selector shaft channel.

LEW153
22nd May 2005, 06:57
Actually, what bhodisatva said makes a lot of sense, as the gear lever could have quite easily slipped out of the selectors and that's what it looks like as the gear lever is resting on the seat.

I didn't realise that, thought it was something more complicated.

I'll try and dismantle the floor panels and give it a look, some time this afternoon. Thanks to all, for pointing out what could be the problem. ;)

AGM
22nd May 2005, 10:09
Did you wash it by any chance?


On my Series 3 the gear stick gets exaggeratedly loose every time it rains so that it is practically impossible to put it into any gear! I was told that the base of the Gear stick gets loose and with water it is obviosly becomes better lubricated! I suppose it must have something to do with the rubber mentioned above wearing out.

What I am going to do is spot weld the base of the gear lever, basically where it is slipping! Other alternative is to but a new gearlever with the base but i think i'll try my first option first!:D

landymaniac
22nd May 2005, 11:58
you have to dismantle the floor panels starting from the floor board on the drivers side and passenger then remove the tunel. there are 4 small bolts 2 with the gearbox housing other 2 with gearbox. unscrew these and the gear lever is out. check if these were loose if not our gear stick is worn. you can buy this as second hand or weld the bottom and grind it round. the rubber washer o ring is there to dampen the vibration of the gear lever.....to take away that bzzzzzzzz noise. if you need to service the comlplete gear lever it can be all dismanteled to pieces. i would recomend this as it would become smoother. at the bottom you wiil find a circlip and beneath a spring. remove these and clean. at the top of the lever there is another small bolt that stops the lever from tuning 360 degrees,
when re fitting put water proof grease in the slots of the shifting shaf forks to dampen vibration and ease the selection. be care ful that when you fit the lever there is a spring and small flap that you need to lift(on the reverse shaft). wheen lever fitted put this flap back down. also check that this flap has to have 2 small springs. this si so that when you engage reverse gear you will have that slight hard feel not to mix up gears.

regarding the 4wd low selector all it needs is lubrication. clean the shaft that engages 4wd low and where it enters and spray wd40 and try to engage. if it still doesnt engage there is a small cover with 3 bolts. dismantle that and you will have better access. all there is is a shaft that slides in the transfer case aluminium casing and probably he previous owner did not use 4wd low and it got stuck.

Both problems are an easy job just take your time and understand the mechanism. one important thing is lubrification. land rover without lubrification will end up in pieces. hope i helped

LEW153
22nd May 2005, 12:32
Many thanks for your explanantion Landymaniac. I'll go and dismantle the floor panels and the gearbox top this afternoon.

Thanks for your help once again...;)

LEW153
22nd May 2005, 17:13
Just got back from garage...

Red lever is now working ok thanks to your advice. WD40 did the job. As regards to the gearbox the big U bracket holding the gearlever is broken. Apparently it was broken before and it was welded. Will I find a new one to buy and how much would that cost?

If it's difficult to find and expensive, I have in mind to re-weld it and weld a flatbar on top of it, to give it some extra strength.

Thanks again for your help.

nighthawk
22nd May 2005, 18:15
Hmmm seems like clifton had a very quick entry into the world of landrovers.... ie. breakdowns :D

As regards your U bracket clifton. I guess it would be pretty cheap... BUT (and it's a huge BUT)... you probably won't find it from land rover shops for sale as it's not the sort of item dealers would keep in stock. You could try to find a similar one from some other shop. I don't know if Catania would have something similar. Maybe Steve can give better ideas where to get one from.

Good luck and hope you'll come around with us someday soon!

tdi200
23rd May 2005, 05:54
Go to joey tal mosta and buy a second hand one, i had one somewhere but i think i binned it a while ago (sorry! could have been yours for free!)

While your floor is off i do suggest checking all reative working parts are serviced, ie, 4wd linkages and levers, reverse gate springs, and oil leaks from the selecter forks etc.

Grem

landymaniac
23rd May 2005, 08:37
the U bracket you where there are the 4 holding down bolts???? I have one some where in the garage. But you can weld that if you have both pieces. that part is steel, the casted part is aluminium

LEW153
23rd May 2005, 10:30
I think I managed to find a new one for Lm5. If I don't manage, I'll weld both pieces and weld a flatbar on top to give it extra strength. The LR should be back on the road today :)

I noticed this bracket is only using two bolts. The other two bolts fitting in the engine block are missing. Should the bolts screw in the engine block or do they require a nut from inside the engine case? The workshop manual illustrates a plate that blocks the gap. On my LR, it's missing.

Thanks.

dborg01
23rd May 2005, 10:44
If you haven't found what you're looking for yet try Blitz in Imdina Road, Qormi.


Looks like your Landy gave you a proper welcome to the green oval:D

landymaniac
23rd May 2005, 11:18
for lm5 i wolud give you the complete gearlever;)

the two bolt you are refering to i think bolt down to the gearbox housing. there is supposed to be a thread in there. if those threads are worn you have to taps new thread being careful not to drop large pieces of material inside the housing.

the other 2 bolts are studs if i remeber well

cil111
23rd May 2005, 12:52
one important thing is lubrification. land rover without lubrification will end up in pieces. hope i helped




what kind of word is that.... Did u mean LUBRICATION by any chance????:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :eek: ;) :p

landymaniac
23rd May 2005, 13:09
iwa man:p mental miss print...........:rolleyes: bzzzzzzzz

olo
23rd May 2005, 13:39
the english dictionary re-written by steve :p

LEW153
23rd May 2005, 21:59
Update.............

I welded the bracket, as a friend of mine is a very good welder. Fitted back the gear lever and gears seem to be working fine BUT I discovered a second problem....

When I engage second or reverse gear and fully depress the clutch, the LR is still delivering power to the wheels. I also noticed the fluid reservoir is half empty. Hence the next thing on the list is to dismantle the clutch master and slave cylinders and replace all oil seals. That should fix the problem hopefully.

Any tips or ideas are more than welcome....

olo
23rd May 2005, 22:02
sounds right as i just passed through a clutch prob too and its wot i was told, if fluid is leaking, check cylinder oil seals! then the rest

landymaniac
24th May 2005, 08:24
download a manual from the net it is an easy job. lm5 and youll fix everything if its just the seals. check also the flexible pipe. beter spend an extra lm2 and be sure of your work

to dismantle the pedal box you need to unscrew the bolts from inside the cabin. the nuts are welded to the pedal box;)

also note that when you fit everything back to place you need to leave some loose on the pedal about 10mm i think. there is written on the manual. i usually add some more.

theBaptist
24th May 2005, 09:06
kemm gejja bil koko dil landy man qahbec erwina :rolleyes: ghamel kuragg imma ta ghax meta tigi f'posta tghatik pjacir ;)

anzi diga intfajt tmitt idejk ghax jien bigilla fejn jithol spanner :D

LEW153
24th May 2005, 09:34
U le, it shouldn't be a big problem. I just need to find some time to dismantle the slave and master cylinders and replace the oil seals.

Should be ready by next week, hopefully. ;)

dborg01
24th May 2005, 10:51
Landymaniac, LM5 is way too much for the seals!! I used to get the kit for 50c from Randu!!

Lew153, Check the bore of the cylinders before fitting new seals or otherwise you will only solve the problem for a couple of days or if you're lucky for a couple of weeks!!! If you feel that the bore is not smooth replace the whole thing.

In the meantime if you need anything else just let us know! ;)

Hope to see you up and running veeeeeeery soon!! :p

LEW153
24th May 2005, 11:11
How much would the slave or master cylinder cost to replace and is it a problem to source the parts? If I don't manage to find the cylinders, I could quite easily machine them and fit a sleeve in them.

Where is this shop/garage "Randu"?

I'll keep you updated with any news....;)

landymaniac
24th May 2005, 11:21
approx lm12 for master(imitation)
approx lm12 for slave(imitation)

randu = bkara near new bov head office. venda ta bkara straight up in direction of umberto colloso you will find hsbc on left, bov on right. randu is in the cormer on the left. be careful where to park there is cctv camera there.:D


remeber that hydraulic is Dot 3.

theBaptist
24th May 2005, 11:42
mhux se ssib isem Randu ta .... i think its called Galea Autoparts

tdi300
24th May 2005, 20:14
Clif, Randu is close to where i live. If you want we'll drop by tomorrow.

Guys I was thinking that clif invested in a fred flintstone car........he will have to power it by foot ie 2 foot power.

olo
24th May 2005, 21:26
or work on it as he's doing, luckily he knows his way abouts motors unlike me, am still learning :(