Essential maintenance advice needed

[Purple Hugs]

Ok ok, you just know i'm going to bug you forever don't you!?
But I do appreciate your kind advice. ;)

So... newly purchased 1990 V8i Disco

What repairs would you do as a matter of course.. you know like cambelts on Fords...

And what would you recommend for sealing any rust - not too bad, but as you'd expect it is there. :p

Thanks again.

Should add... limited budget!

[HarryD]

Sorry...started a derv relevant reply before remembering that you are a V8...DOH!

[Rangienut]

I'd start off with an oil and filter change, check all levels (diffs, gearbox, transfer box, swivels, brake fluid, PAS fluid, coolant) grease prop joints, check condition of brakes, pipes, hoses etc, steering components, wheel bearing play, tyres, lights, wipers, horn and all fuel lines, this should keep you going for a while :D

[Chock]

If you're expecting to keep the vehicle for any length of time, getting on the case with regard to rust is paramount, particularly in view of the fact that it's a pain in the ass to treat corrosion in damp weather, so NOW is the time to act.
Get rid of as much corrosion as you can with either a wire brush, a cup brush on a drill, or a wire attachment on an angle grinder (wear gloves and - most crucially - eye protection when doing this, those cup brushes like to throw off wires which will blind you if they hit your eye, so this is VITAL, don't be tempted to think 'oh it'll be okay', buy some goggles, you only get one set of eyes).
When grinding off rust, be careful not to just polish up the surface of the rust with your scrubbing, which can happen and it looks like all the rust is gone, when it really isn't, so make sure it really is all gone and decent metal is what's left, a tap with a small hammer on your cleaned up surface will reveal the truth (switching the rotation direction of your drill or grinder helps with ensuring that the rust is really going, but be careful to grip it well when you change direction, as it will skitter about initially, and for god's sake don't be tempted to remove the safety guard from a grinder for better access, just use a wire brush and put up with it taking a while).
When you have clean metal, a liberal dose of Jenolite, Kurust or similar in dry conditions will do the job (use a small cheap paintbrush and really stipple the stuff in there, be thorough and don't get that in your eyes either) and then ASAP get the surface sealed with paint or primer.
When you are doing this kind of thing, don't be afraid to knacker decent paint nearby to the rust, as although it might seem a shame, a thorough treatment of the rusted areas is more important than trying to save a bit of original paint, so be ruthless, you'll be glad you did when the wet weather comes.

[TEMPL4R]

I'd start off with an oil and filter change, check all levels (diffs, gearbox, transfer box, swivels, brake fluid, PAS fluid, coolant) grease prop joints, check condition of brakes, pipes, hoses etc, steering components, wheel bearing play, tyres, lights, wipers, horn and all fuel lines, this should keep you going for a while :D

.... and the V8s need the engine breathers doing EVERY service. They leak very badly otherwise.

Chris

[Purple Hugs]

Thanks All... i'm having a bit of a noise today and was wondering if the washer water warming up is a bad thing? i've never had this on another car, but today after 30 miles it was warm to the touch but not boiling.