View Full Version : HELP - My Rod has come off - cor blimey???
despot69
28th Sep 2006, 22:11
Well called the garage in the disco tonight , filled her up ready for the weekend and went to drive off the forcourt - problem could only go in a straight line - no steering,damn.
Journey home on low loader and a nightmare getting it safely off the road.
The track rod (thinks its called that LOL) has fallen off at the wheel end,right hand wheel.
How can this happen,is it common? is it easy/cheap to fix????
Thank God though I wasn't doing 70 on the M6!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Dave-H
29th Sep 2006, 07:51
Disco 1, 2 or 3?
despot69
29th Sep 2006, 08:34
Disco 1, 2 or 3?
Its a 1995 300tdi
As you can see from the pics - one part has fallen off the other?
richard55
29th Sep 2006, 08:39
I had a LDV 350D British leyland just past its MOT 1 month earler just stoped went into reverse strange steering got out had look front wheels facing oposite directions track rod ball joint ball on drivers side just fell out of socket (even now just think myself very lucky)
should be easy to fix just the screwed in section can be seased solid in track rod bar end you will most likely better to take off and use a vice and big wrench good luck
Rich
conkers
29th Sep 2006, 08:39
Do you think that ball joints an mot failiure?
richard55
29th Sep 2006, 08:44
Only when it falls off the 4 post lift
Rich
richard55
29th Sep 2006, 08:45
Espcially if the MOT tester is underneath
Rich
richard55
29th Sep 2006, 08:48
Because he wont be able to finnish filling in the form
Rich
despot69
29th Sep 2006, 08:55
so is this part the drag link or track rod end????
The ball looks worn away partly under close inspection (not sure if my pic shows it). I take it I will need a new ball joint and if so should I replace both ends?
Also surely it would be a better design to have the joint face upwards and not downwards - as this way gravity helps to keep it where it should go.
Just glad I wasn't on the main road when it happened - roundabout etc - nasty.
Despot,
The Track Rod joins the two wheel hubs together and runs behind the axle. The Drag Link runs from the front of the wheel hub to the steering column (Drop Arm).
From your pictures it looks like the Drop Arm ball joint had failed. You can buy repair kits for this item. Do a search for Drag links, ball joints etc. There was a flurry of track rod ends and droparms being renewed recently.
Have a look at this thread (http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php?t=66089&highlight=track+rod)
richard55
29th Sep 2006, 11:43
Yes it looks like the drop arm ball joint Ive just replaced my ball joints on the track rod ends got mine from paddocks the replacement ones came with grease nipples so at least you can pump in some grease from time to time Ive had to replace ball joints that have failed in less than a year With the state of the roads its a hell of a hammering they get
Rich
despot69
29th Sep 2006, 12:31
Despot,
The Track Rod joins the two wheel hubs together and runs behind the axle. The Drag Link runs from the front of the wheel hub to the steering column (Drop Arm).
From your pictures it looks like the Drop Arm ball joint had failed. You can buy repair kits for this item. Do a search for Drag links, ball joints etc. There was a flurry of track rod ends and droparms being renewed recently.
Have a look at this thread (http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php?t=66089&highlight=track+rod)
Thanks for all the info - called into Land ranger services in Longton on my way work (walked 3 miles in the rain - bah humbug?). Purchased a right and left hand thread to do both ends - these are new types as it was the ball end of the joint that had worn on mine.These new ones actualy bolt toether and are safer.
Total cost £24, just gotta fit em now and ensure my wheels stay straight - GULP LOL.
StrangeRover
29th Sep 2006, 15:38
That looks really nasty. Was there no free play that would indicate an imminent failure?
I have just been out and checked mine (OK Phew!).
I much prefer the set-up used on the Range Rover classic drop-arm. If that one wears it cannot come free.
I will investigate the possibility of retro-fitting the RR parts to my 300-Series Disco.
richard55
29th Sep 2006, 15:47
I think its only the early drop arm ball joint that can be repaired the later one uses standard ball joints when replacing check centres of ball joints early ones should be 919mm later ones 924mm
Rich
toppa
29th Sep 2006, 15:50
Wheels will stray straight unless you remove the track rod or adjust the track tod...
The hardest part of the job is going to be getting the old joints out of the rod....
Cheers
richard55
29th Sep 2006, 15:59
That was the best bit you can use your big hammer and shout and swear alot even the dog went and hid
Rich
despot69
29th Sep 2006, 16:55
That looks really nasty. Was there no free play that would indicate an imminent failure?
I have just been out and checked mine (OK Phew!).
I much prefer the set-up used on the Range Rover classic drop-arm. If that one wears it cannot come free.
I will investigate the possibility of retro-fitting the RR parts to my 300-Series Disco.
The guy in the Landy shop stated I should have noticed it going but my last two landies have been a series three and an early 90 - neither had power steering so in all honesty I wouldn't have noticed the already namby pamby disco steering going any lighter than it already is?????
TEMPL4R
29th Sep 2006, 20:32
He probably meant the excess play in the steering wheel.
The earlier comment made about the ball joints mounted the way they are. Buses always had to have the joints with the ball on top, to do exactly as posted. The weight would keep the socket on the ball. It doesn't apply now.
There are mounted underneath because of the height difference of the axle and chassis. The Drag link would have too sharp an angle and there would be interference with other parts. Straight rods are also easier to make and stronger in compression, when you turn.
Chris
despot69
29th Sep 2006, 22:11
This is one of the new ones I brought today, they bolt through and dont rely on the ball holding it together - look far safer.Just gotta get the old ones off tomorrow and fit these - probably easier said than done??LOL
richard55
30th Sep 2006, 10:50
Dont understand about a bolt through I always thought a ball joint was made like the older ball joint on drop arm which you can repair by taking back plate off held in by circlip and fitting new parts other ball joints made same way just the back plate is crimped in (not serviceable)
despot69
30th Sep 2006, 19:04
Well the joints wont come off my drag link rod - soaked em in WD40 etc and no joy - seized solid, damn still no steering and I need the disco for Monday - AAaarrrgghhh.
Anybody done this job before - any hints?
Thought of using a blow torch to heat and expand the sleeves?
StrangeRover
30th Sep 2006, 21:45
Well the joints wont come off my drag link rod - soaked em in WD40 etc and no joy - seized solid, damn still no steering and I need the disco for Monday - AAaarrrgghhh.
Anybody done this job before - any hints?
Thought of using a blow torch to heat and expand the sleeves?
Chuck the old tube it's not worth the grief.
Really: They are not that expensive (especially when compared to a mechanics hourly rate) so I never bother trying anymore.
It's always the way; when you need the car for work on Monday:( .
toppa
30th Sep 2006, 21:54
Well the joints wont come off my drag link rod - soaked em in WD40 etc and no joy - seized solid, damn still no steering and I need the disco for Monday - AAaarrrgghhh.
Anybody done this job before - any hints?
Thought of using a blow torch to heat and expand the sleeves?
knew they would be a ******, the last track rod i bent, i never even botherd trying to get the ball joints off, just tossed the whole lot...
CHeers
richard55
1st Oct 2006, 07:24
I did mine used a big vice and a big spanner and it did start to move back and forward and wd40 once you move it it will come out (dont lose faith it will come apart)
TEMPL4R
1st Oct 2006, 10:26
Just remember to put some Copperslip on the threads when you re assemble.
Use a couple of largish hammers, one as an Anvil, the other to "work" the tube. It should loosen off. ( the posh description, meaning give it some clout).
As SR has already said, if you can wait for parts, get the whole drag link, grease it up before you fit it.
Chris
despot69
3rd Oct 2006, 07:21
Got a new rod and connected it all up - got my stearing back at last.
ONly problem is even though I have been very carefull my steering wheel is slightly off centre when I drive in a straight line - This would be a fine on my old series three but a bit un nerving on a disco. Is this dangerous or should I just move the steering wheel or tweak the wheels again?
AS long as you still have some adjustment on the rod just give it a tweak to get the steering wheel in the centre.
Mark B
4th Oct 2006, 18:05
don't go for the blow torch ways, we look for signs of this on the test, all it does is weeken the system
despot69
6th Oct 2006, 20:57
AS long as you still have some adjustment on the rod just give it a tweak to get the steering wheel in the centre.
As my steering wheel is to the right of its central mark I take it the rod needs widening then?
Suppose I will find at during the weekend when I have another go at it?
TEMPL4R
7th Oct 2006, 20:16
You need to turn the wheel to the left, so it will need shortening. The road wheels stay where they are, the drop arm moves left.
Chris
despot69
8th Oct 2006, 12:02
You need to turn the wheel to the left, so it will need shortening. The road wheels stay where they are, the drop arm moves left.
Chris
Thanks for that,just turned it inwards twice,tightened everything up and hey presto straight steering wheel.
Hurrah
TEMPL4R
8th Oct 2006, 12:26
There you go, You'll remember that now, and can advise the lads who need to do it.
Everyday we learn something new.:)
Chris
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