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ken110
22nd Nov 2006, 09:48
I'm thinking of buying one of those drimmel things for cutting out the rot on the top corner of my bulkhead. I've got the panel to weld in but want to make sure i only take out the minimal amount of metal. Taking an angle grinder to it fills my pants at the moment so I thought one of these might do the job and is a bit more accurate. what do you guys think? will it be too much for the little thing to handle??

Cheers
dave

Stephen
22nd Nov 2006, 10:11
I'm thinking of buying one of those drimmel things for cutting out the rot on the top corner of my bulkhead. I've got the panel to weld in but want to make sure i only take out the minimal amount of metal. Taking an angle grinder to it fills my pants at the moment so I thought one of these might do the job and is a bit more accurate. what do you guys think? will it be too much for the little thing to handle??

Cheers
dave

Lots of spare cutting discs (get the larger black fibre reinforced cutting discs) Don't put force behind the cut (breaks disc) and the Dremel can do great work. Don't bother with cordless dremel though, no balls. I prefer dremel over a small airtool cutter.

oh on a side rant (:D) safety glasses are essential with any dremel work as they shed their tools and fragment discs as a matter of routine. It gets my goat that dremel kits do not include safety glasses and its only a marketing ploy that they not because a large portion of market is parents buying for child modelers... inclusion of safety goggle = dangerous product = parents avoid.

ken110
22nd Nov 2006, 10:17
cheers for that stephen, I thought i might have been chasing the holy grail. I've taken to use an old welding mask with a bit or perspex in the window after a cutting disc on the angle grinder shattered! :eek:

so a dremel is the thing i'm after, Ive seen a few in machine mart so might have to have a look :D

cheers
dave

Landysteve1975
22nd Nov 2006, 15:26
It will use alot of disc's but like Stephen say don't put pressure on it and it will do the job!

Median
22nd Nov 2006, 15:58
... It gets my goat that dremel kits do not include safety glasses and its only a marketing ploy that they not because a large portion of market is parents buying for child modelers... inclusion of safety goggle = dangerous product = parents avoid.

I think it depends which kit you buy. When I bought my Dremel kit it came with safety glasses and an apron. Got it half price from B&Q into the bargain :)

Cheers

Stephen
22nd Nov 2006, 16:41
I think it depends which kit you buy. When I bought my Dremel kit it came with safety glasses and an apron. Got it half price from B&Q into the bargain :)

Cheers
That is excellent if they did supply them, cheers!

adrianandkate
22nd Nov 2006, 16:56
angle grinders aren't that bad, practice on a bit of scrap steel, buy a steel cutting disc, gloves, obviously eye protection as mentioned above, and preferably overalls - and don't do it your sandals either.
you'll either need an angle grinder for your bulkhead later or your chassis or something.
when (not if) you do buy one, look in local mart paper, buy 110 volt plus transformer, because it is safer. make sure you test before you buy.

ken110
22nd Nov 2006, 18:24
angle grinders aren't that bad, practice on a bit of scrap steel, buy a steel cutting disc, gloves, obviously eye protection as mentioned above, and preferably overalls - and don't do it your sandals either.
you'll either need an angle grinder for your bulkhead later or your chassis or something.
when (not if) you do buy one, look in local mart paper, buy 110 volt plus transformer, because it is safer. make sure you test before you buy.

cheers adrianandkate...should we just call you adrian :D I've got a grinder and not afraid to use it. it's just the the cutting discs arnt too accurate infact i've got visions of everything else getting cut but the bit i'm aiming for :D that's where the dremmel came in.

dave

adrianandkate
22nd Nov 2006, 18:33
wicked eh! what is this site like! so wots rong with gettng the right discs? sorry 4 spelling, this forum is 2 fast 4 me. u can call me kate and him adrian. ok? no kids tanpoco

ken110
22nd Nov 2006, 18:39
hi Kate,

nothing wrong with the discs but thought that goign gentle with the little thing would be better than hacking the landy to bits with a grinder. It's the disc thickness I've got a problem with...and there's less sparks with the little thingey-ma-bob ;)

dave

jepaton
22nd Nov 2006, 18:47
angle grinders aren't that badMy dad has only hurt himself twice with one. I'd recommend some tough gloves as well, especially if your hand is going to be anywhere near the cutting/grinding wheel. I also recommend your loose clothing doesn't get too near the spinning wheel...

110V is not just safer because it is 110V but also because of the isolation transformer. Say you cut the wire, now hold either end with your hand. Dead. Compare that to standard mains, where you hold the live end with one hand and touch an earthed object with the other. Dead.

I don't think electrocution is the biggest risk for the home user. A normal grinder with a RCD protection unit should be almost as safe. Forget about an angle grinder, buy either a plasma cutter or flame cutter. :)

Jonathan Paton

adrianandkate
22nd Nov 2006, 19:10
agree with plasma cutter comment as well - good kit if you choose/afford it - oops this is from adrian,
if u don't choose it (because of price poss? but good bit of kit) choose dear cutting disc.
u shouldn't b hacking your bulkhead 2 bits, mark out where u r going to cut, and do it neatly, easy eh! leave the beer alone and wear the goggles, you can do it bro, with a grinder, and you'll always always need one
hv a gd evening

nobber
22nd Nov 2006, 19:29
angle grinder and a good quality hacksaw.
mens tools.
:)

mrsjohnty
22nd Nov 2006, 21:06
I used a dremel to cut the holes in my wing for my snorkel........ very handy woudnt have felt at ease using anything else....... also used it for cutting the holes out for my NAS lights :) Cost me 30 quid I think for the kit, with goggles and an apron as mentioned somewhere else in the thread;)

adrianandkate
22nd Nov 2006, 21:21
I used a dremel to cut the holes in my wing for my snorkel........ very handy woudnt have felt at ease using anything else....... also used it for cutting the holes out for my NAS lights :) Cost me 30 quid I think for the kit, with goggles and an apron as mentioned somewhere else in the thread;)

thru aluminium or steel?

mrsjohnty
22nd Nov 2006, 22:22
Mainly aluminium but there was some steel to be trimmed... as previously mentioned though for a bulk head you would probably use a lot of cutting discs:D My hubby has been through about 4 angle grinders working on my SIIa though....... all burnt out!

Stumpy Doofleer
22nd Nov 2006, 23:10
Don't run it for long though about 5 mins tops, as I bought one last week for cutting holes in my new dash, and it started smoking after about 20 mins of on off use, and now only works at full power or nothing, rather than being variable speed. Looked into buying spares for it and I would be better off buy a new one considering I'd get an extra battery which costs £30 anyway.

Stephen
23rd Nov 2006, 09:20
Cordless dremel are pretty dire lightweight workers compared to the 240v mothers. Have to say even the non-dremels brands you get from aldi and such places are better than a cordless dremel.

Tools I have used...

B&Q cheap brand "performance Power" 0 -20,000 rpm (18volt via powerpack). Good little tool for about 12 pound with 50 piece tool set. It only had a low max rev (20,000rpm) and was suited for modelling... bought it for one job - cutting rusted bolts - job done. Head bearing failed after lots of work - too much sideways pressure from me being impatient and hands like a gorrillia.
My father has got the next model up from this one (with vertical stand), had it for about 2 years and uses it daily for modelling/shaping in solid brass, copper and diecast, do not think he will be changing it anytime soon.

Dremel Lithium-Ion cordless Model 800- 5,000 - 35,000 RPM . Good for very light weight work - mostly modelling or small jobs where you need to be cordless. Cordless rely on staying at max speed and no pressure what so ever applied behind the cut other than holding and guiding the tool, else you loose speed, generate heat (wow it cooks) and battery rapidly becomes defunct within minutes. I still got this tool, for occasional use like cutting padlocks and hinges:)

Aldi's Power Craft PKW-160 COMBITOOL. 15000 - 35000 RPM - 160W motor (240v straight in). Wow for 14 quid this tool is brilliant. Bunch of tools and 3 foot chucked flex (DIY dental work anyone?:D). But big and bulky compared to other but its got balls! I worked this one to death. Even precision cut up a cast iron manifold so I could extract special studs unharmed. It's still alive just could do with a new chuck. Shopping for new chuck lead me to get...

DREMEL MODEL 285 - 15,000 - 33,000 125W (240v straight in)- Not a top range model, in fact came in a starter kit but was in a sale for around 15 pound bargin. Nice compact size, enough balls for what I want. Dremel quality build. I aim to not abuse this one too much;) Fitted a adjustable chuck which is wel ll recommended over pain in **** collets.

ken110
23rd Nov 2006, 09:40
Nice one cheers for that Stephen! The last one sounds like it'll do my job. the corner on my bulkhead has been filled with resin but the monkey that did it did'nt take out all the rot. :(
so you see it's not goign to be a case of manic cutting more polishing and grinding out the cr@p and re-painting and finally weld in the new panel. I'm goign to use millions of tack welds for this, to minimise the amount of heat goign through the bulkhead. I've said it before but I'll post my success or failur on here so others have something to go by.

cheers for the reply's

dave

mmgemini
23rd Nov 2006, 11:28
Nobody has mentioned the best manufacturer here.
Look at Proxxon.
Brilliant but then they are industrial and not hobby tools.