More Discovery 2 wheel nut questions

[cmac]

Hello Everyone,

Have just taken the plunge and purchased a 1999 TD5 Discovery 2 from a private seller. Very exciting times indeed!
Today I decided to make sure that changing a flat tyre wouldn't be a problem (I never like to do these things for the first time on the side of the motorway) so I got all the necessary equipment together and rolled up my sleeves.
However, I've found that a number of the alloy wheel nuts (by that, I mena the wheels are alloy) are no longer 27mm as I presume they should be. Without a 28mm socket to hand I can't confirm that they are indeed 28mm nuts (if such things exist) but the 27mm socket will fit begin to go on the nut and then go no further. The nuts themselves feel to be slightly bulged.
I'm wondering if I might have a fankenstein set of wheel nuts, or is this a known/common problem with wheel nuts for alloy wheels?
For the record, I'm not talking about the lock nuts ;)
Any opinions gratefully received, thanks,

cmac.

[VDB]

Hi there,

Similar story on my Disco 1. I have found that a 27 will fit, though very tight with a bit of wiggling from side to side and a good push. I have copper ease on the threads so they spin quite easily and means i only need to get socket on about half way. I also use an extending wheel wrench wich makes life easier.

I recall a volvo 240, well the three of them I had suffered similar problems and had to resort to an imperial socket to loosen them. Exen tried squashing then in the vice with limited results. A tyre fitter told me that they were prone to swelling so I presume the disco ones are also.

New nuts I'm afraid.

cheers

[cmac]

Thanks VDB. First time I've ended up owning anything with alloys so it's a brave new world :)
New wheel nuts it is then. Does anyone know how to identify the wheel I have? Is there a LR part number on them anywhere?

[V8_Disco]

Put a picture up is usualy the best option

Aidan

[Disco69]

I found the same thing on my disco 2 the other day - struggled to get the wheel brace on some of the nuts and yet some were ok. I put it down to landrovers factory quality control not measuring/manufacturing them correctly.
Ended up using a hammer to knock the wheelbrace on far enough to loosen the nuts without risking the wheelbrace slipping off.

[cmac]

Finally getting around to responding.
Here is a pic of the wheels currently on the Disco2. Can anyone confirm that they are LR original and what the part number for the wheel nuts might be?
Cheers,
Ciaran.

[swag298]

They don't happen to have nut covers on them do they?
They look slightly odd to me.

swag

[cmac]

They don't happen to have nut covers on them do they?


Funny you should ask..
They do feel "loose" on the nut but I could not encourage them to come off (obviously the one with the depression comes off no problem ;) . I've read other threads that indicate this is the way of the Land Rover nuts.

[swag298]

They are thin stainless covers that are causing the problem. Might have to try a 28mm single-hex socket.
Or maybe a Whitworth socket would work better.

swag

[oRGie]

those nuts have thin stainless covers and water can eventually get inside and corrosion swells them (this is what I was told btw), eventually they will spin on the nut inside. I had to replace 4 on the last mot for this reason. Watch out for cheap replacements, the new ones fitted to mine were 3 quid each, but started rusting on the outside within 2 days lmao :)

[NomadABC]

Finally getting around to responding.
Here is a pic of the wheels currently on the Disco2. Can anyone confirm that they are LR original and what the part number for the wheel nuts might be?
Cheers,
Ciaran.

They are LR original.

My last two Discos had the same problem as you describe, with corrosion inside the stainless covers. On some of them, I had to spend ages tapping a heavy duty wheel wrench over the nuts. most LR suppliers stock these, and they are very heavy duty. After removing the wheels a couple of times they eventually became looser.

As for the locking nuts: There are either four or fiver patterns of locking nuts. Make sure you get the right socket for the job. Unfortunately, they are very easy to damage (both the locking nuts and the socket), so make sure you use some copper grease, once you remove them.

[cmac]

Thanks for all the information everyone. I'll go and get myself a few spare nuts today but just wondered if there is a better way of getting the swollen nuts off other than "whacking" on a socket. Is there a danger that this will damage the studs/wheels?
Also, should the grease be applied to the threaded section of the nut, or just on the outside of the shaft?
Cheers,
Ciaran.

[NomadABC]

Thanks for all the information everyone. I'll go and get myself a few spare nuts today but just wondered if there is a better way of getting the swollen nuts off other than "whacking" on a socket. Is there a danger that this will damage the studs/wheels?
Also, should the grease be applied to the threaded section of the nut, or just on the outside of the shaft?
Cheers,
Ciaran.

I apply sparingly to both the threads and a smear around the outside. Also, once you have removed the wheel, apply plenty around the centre boss of the hub where it meets the alloy of the wheel. When they start to corrode, they seem like they have been welded together.

[CanLR]

Hi there,

Similar story on my Disco 1. I have found that a 27 will fit, though very tight with a bit of wiggling from side to side and a good push. I have copper ease on the threads so they spin quite easily and means i only need to get socket on about half way. I also use an extending wheel wrench wich makes life easier.

I recall a volvo 240, well the three of them I had suffered similar problems and had to resort to an imperial socket to loosen them. Exen tried squashing then in the vice with limited results. A tyre fitter told me that they were prone to swelling so I presume the disco ones are also.

New nuts I'm afraid.

cheers

I'm experiencing same problem with my D2 (2000). It seems the best option would be a non LR replacment that addresses the root cause of the problem, i.e. solid (as opposed to having a rattly 'cover' on) nut. Being solid there would be no problem with the cover becoming distorted or swell due to water ingress/freeze, whatever.
I am going to try a fastener specialist and report back.. in the meantime has anyone explored this option already and can share their experience ?

Thanks.