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welshlaner
24th May 2007, 22:34
Cutch has gone well think its the cutch, cannot get any gears, taken off the slave and the connecting rod is well back, therefore slave at full bore.

lts a 200tdi disco 1 L reg, been lurking on the forums and seen a few threads, got an engine crane (long arm), balance thing, and a pit but no speaicl gearbox mounts, so is it easier to take the engine out or move the gearbox back, prefer to play safe and got most of these weekend to get the job done so have more time to "play", ie got time on me hands.

Any advice please done a few engine out jobs but on smaller cars and a series

ROB 110 HICAP
24th May 2007, 22:41
engine out will be easier, as you have to remove mounts and dip it to reach upper belhousing bolts. if you remove the rad, you'll be able to move it forward enough without lifting it out. while you're in there change the rear crank oil seal £5.
good guides here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=4731

welshlaner
24th May 2007, 23:50
thanks i've read a few of those threads before damm good with excellent pics, better than some of the manuals. I like the ones which go as far to tell you which spanner size to use really speeds things up, always write in my manuals what sizes to use, shame the so called "pro manuals" don't.

Les Henson
25th May 2007, 06:15
Disco clutch is hard to do becuase you can't remove the floor. I agree with taking the engine out - especially if you have a crane. If you are going to leave the radiator in, then put some plywood or similar on the inside face of it to prevent accidental damage.

welshlaner
25th May 2007, 20:18
Disco clutch is hard to do becuase you can't remove the floor. I agree with taking the engine out - especially if you have a crane. If you are going to leave the radiator in, then put some plywood or similar on the inside face of it to prevent accidental damage.

gone for the engine out, disconceted everything, as usual the theomos vicous fan was stuck, had to use a chain wench on the pulley flange, radiator out since if drain the anti freeze might was well take the rad out.

Only thing i do differcently is to remove the plate with the steering pump, saves messing with the power steering system.

welshlaner
26th May 2007, 19:01
quick question ready to pull out, the haynes manual says put a jack under the transmission is that the transfer box or the gearbox, ie which needs support the transfer box is heaveier but the gear box is further forward

Les Henson
27th May 2007, 16:27
You jack up the gearbox until the transfer case is clear of it's mounting. A jack will never reach on it's own, so you need a length of wood to make up the distance. I replaced an LT230 Transfer Bax last week and have just completed a thread on it. Possibly a bit late now, but here it is (over 60 pictures I'm afraid) :-

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14601&st=0#entry150884

welshlaner
28th May 2007, 15:02
great thread ready to do it but waiting extra pair of hands

was going to do it yesterday but went laning instead as a gate opener far more fun

swag298
28th May 2007, 15:26
Lift the transfer box until it's clear of it's mountings????????Why?
Taking an engine out, you need a jack under the front end of the gearbox to tilt it up so the engine will come off it's mounts.
Lift the engine with the crane until clear of it's mounts. Keep the front end of the 'box supported so the 2 don't bind together.

An extra pair of hands? With a trolley jack and engine crane it's quite easily do-able with one person.
I've changed many a 300Tdi clutch, in the dark, on my own, in the middle of nowhere. Squaddies are really hard on Wolf clutches........
And my V8110 is even easier. I can remove engine, change clutch, and re-install in a couple of hours.

swag

Les Henson
28th May 2007, 17:36
The thread in the link is for removing a Transfer box with the engine and gearbox in situ.

swag298
28th May 2007, 17:55
Useful information in a thread about removing the engine........;)

swag

welshlaner
28th May 2007, 20:12
well its out and no damage or lost fingers:D need a few blows with a block of wood and a lump hammer, the cluch plates a mess, broken springs bits everywhere.

about the worse was the nut on the top of the bell housing you need assitance with a light to guide the box spanners in with lots of long wobble bars, any one will do

Les Henson
28th May 2007, 20:21
Good point Swag - a bit of confusion on my part. However, jacking the gearbox in order to raise the enigine is not a good idea, seeing as the engine is heavier forward of any point you care to jack a gearbox - this would put extreme pressure on the gearbox/transfer case mounts. I would suggest disconnect the engine mounts, lift the engine until it clear the chassis mounts, support the gearbox whilst in that position, then slightly lower the engine to relieve strain, and then move it off the gearbox assembly. As long as you leave the gearbox in that same position, it's then in line for when the engine is refitted (unless you intend to remove the transmission as well)

swag298
28th May 2007, 21:20
Taking an engine out, you need a jack under the front end of the gearbox to tilt it up so the engine will come off it's mounts.
Lift the engine with the crane until clear of it's mounts. Keep the front end of the 'box supported so the 2 don't bind together.

swag

Errrrrrm, I think we're more or less saying the same thing......

swag

welshlaner
28th May 2007, 23:11
Good point Swag - a bit of confusion on my part. However, jacking the gearbox in order to raise the enigine is not a good idea, seeing as the engine is heavier forward of any point you care to jack a gearbox - this would put extreme pressure on the gearbox/transfer case mounts. I would suggest disconnect the engine mounts, lift the engine until it clear the chassis mounts, support the gearbox whilst in that position, then slightly lower the engine to relieve strain, and then move it off the gearbox assembly. As long as you leave the gearbox in that same position, it's then in line for when the engine is refitted (unless you intend to remove the transmission as well)

yea but you have to lower the whole thing engine & gearbox to get the 3 top nuts off the studs.

then level the whole thing and part company

welshlaner
29th May 2007, 21:17
its out and back in, we found it easier to support the transmission brake with a large jack with a "V" mount, up or down, the gearbox moves up or down. Been well clear of the gearbox, bolts can be put in with ease

welshlaner
31st May 2007, 19:08
well its all back and everything works and nothing leaks were i messed with

However during a leak check noticed the throttle spindle on top of the fuel injector pump leaking fuel quite a bit at first then stops once the engine warms up any ideas or infromation if it can be fixed such as o ring of something looks like surfing tonight tonight.