Head Gasket?

[pfhooper]

I just bought this Disco for a VERY good price. The owner was a lady who purchased the vehicle from a dealership who told her it needed a new head gasket. She decided she wasn't up to the headache of car repair and bought a late model Toyota 4 Runner and sold me the Disco. I have driven the vehicle all over town in moderate high daytime temperatiures ~ 85 F and been stalled for several minutes in traffic jam and have driven a 60 mile trip at 70+ miles per hour. There is NO overheating, no missing or rough running, no water in the oil, no loss of coolant, in short - runs like a dream. My problem is that the local Land Rover dealer insists that the engine needs a head gasket repair (they have not done any fancy diagnostics like analyzer for coolant system, etc.)! Other mechanics say they are crazy. I will pay to repair the engine - but I can't convince myself that it is broken! HELP! Anybody know anything about this? BTW - I'm looking for an owner's manual for '96 Disco - I don't know how to work all the buttons and switches! Thanks, Dr. Hoop.

[Budgie]

Hi Hoop, welcome to the forum. :yay:

The head gasket went on my 300 TDi Disco. The only sign was a blowing/ticking noise from the rear of the head.

The gasket has a small crack between No4 cylinder and rear of the block. There was a slight performance drop but hardly noticable, there was no mixing of water & oil and not smoke.

May be worth a compression test on each cylinder to see if that gives any clue as whether you have a haed gasket gone or not, it'll also tell you the state of the rings. ;)

[Spacemutt]

Hi there, welcome to the forum. :)

As Budgie said, get a compression test done. Did the dealer say why it needs a head gasket?

[pfhooper]

Thanks, guys - I went to the service center and looked over things with an ace mechanic. Stats were OK (compression and no exhaust gas in the coolant - a new sensor-based test), but when at running temperature there is a very little leak at the rear of the head where it meets the block - a slow drip of coolant. I figure this is an indication that things will just get worse and I ordered a R&R of the head gasket. I would rather pay now than after it blew out "down the bayou". Hard to get a tow down in alligator country! Any advice on suspension maintenance? I have a few drips from swivel joints and at the bottom of the power steering box - I thought leaks were pretty common - Like old Harley's and Jags. Should I spring for getting all that done? Thanks again, Dr. Hoop - a new convert to the world of Land Rover - I miss my baby while she's in the shop!

[Spacemutt]

Yeah, sounds like the head gaskett has sprung a leak. As you say, best get it done while you can before it fails somewhere inhopsitable. :p

Steering boxes often leak, but they will be expensive to repair as they are hard to get off. You can get an additive that apparently stops leaks. That might be worth a try.

[Budgie]

I would get the head gasket done now if it's showing signs of pressure and water leakage. If you leave it, it could lead to the head cracking or warping which will add to the cost.

[pfhooper]

Thanks again for all the advice. As I noted, I am having the head gasket R&R'ed and the auxillary fans replaced as well. I live in too hot a climate (visit New Orleans and you'll see what I mean) to muck around with the cooling system! I do have a couple of other things to get fixed. I'm going to look at the gear-box leak before I spend tons of money on replacing it just yet. Anybody got advive about the remote lock key fob system? I replaced the battery in the fob, but I still get intermittant response from it and often have to walk right up to the vehicle to get it to work! Is there any work to be done on the in-car receiver unit? Do I need to buy a new fob? Also, my cruise control doesn't work. Any suggestions? I know these are "luxury" items, but - hey, if it has them, I want them to work, you know. Thanks for your interest, Dr. Hoop, your cajun country geneticist!

[Budgie]

I had the same problem with the remote locking.

These fobs change the code every time the button is pressed so, if the button is pressed when the fob is away from the vehicle then the codes don't match and you have to press the fob button upto three times to re-aline the fob to the vehicle codes.

I don't know anything about the LR cruise control as I have an aftermarket one fitted. ;)

[pfhooper]

Thanks for the tip. My buttons are worn and may be a mechanical weak link. I'm opting for a new fob as I am concerned about my lady having a difficulty in using the remote in urban areas at night. Wnat no surprises there! I'll let you know whether this actually improves performance, but I will remember not to fiddle around with the fob while it is in my pocket! Dr. Hoop :band:

[Rich]

Try one of those leak stop additives as sugested, ive had some sucsess with them in the past. Use a good known brand. As for the swivels, drain the oil out & add genuine LR "one shot swivel grease" - no more oil to leak out !!!!! hope this helps. Rich

[Rich]

if the steering box persists in leaking change the seal, its a 2 minute job- once youve spent 2 days getting the damndrop arm off !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[pfhooper]

Well, got all the work done and she runs tip-top! I got a new fob for remote and it seems OK. Also had new front shocks and the ride is much better on the highway. Cost a lot, but I think that I'll be glad I did it this way. BTW - the service manager has a '96 manual and front rubber mats from his '96 he traded for a new Disco - gave them to me as a gift!:yay:

[julian_jenkins]

Did you resolve the cruise control problem? If not I might have a simple answer. I had a problem with the C_C on my Range Rover V8 and my 300 TDI Disco,which was very easy to fix.

Let me know and I'll get back to you.

[julian_jenkins]

Did you resolve the cruise control problem? If not I might have a simple answer. I had a problem with the C_C on my Range Rover V8 and my 300 TDI Disco,which was very easy to fix.

Let me know and I'll get back to you.

[pfhooper]

Hey, thanks for all the advice. Had to have radiator replaced as it was corroded - service center paid for it since I had asked them to check it out when the head gasket was replaced & it overheated on the highway! Now it is perfect.

Cruise control - told that the vacuum pump is bad and replacement is pricey - $500 (all US currency in my posts)

Brakes - ABS lights up on occasion, told that wheel sensors need replacing - $400 + / wheel

Alternator - starting to get a little cyclic dimming on interior lights - brushes are going out - new alternator $600 !!!!!!!

Anyway I can handle these on my own. I'm experienced with tools and automotive mechanics, but time is hard to allocate and newer electronics can have pitfalls without proper gear. Any things to worry about, if I do these things at home? Good parts sources? Thanks, folks.

BTW - I installed the new console mounted cup holders that come on late models - perfect retro fit & super handy in traffic - I highly recommend this - but kit is $ 75. Early Christmas present!