DII dropped rear door - how to fix?

[Woolwich]

Discovery II TD5 51 plate.

The rear door seems to have dropped. It rubs against the bumper and needs lifted a little to close correctly. This seemed to have happened suddenly and there is nothing obvious like hinge movement. The holder underneath the door (keeps door in half or fully open position) was stiff but is now free.

Where should I be looking at to sort this out?

Thanks!

[V8_Disco]

The hinges can start to fail internaly and cna move within them selves

[Woolwich]

The hinges can start to fail internaly and cna move within them selves

Can I see this by removing the rear door skin to take a look? Is fixing this something I can deal with myself - or does the door need a jig to be realigned?

Thanks!

[ncooper]

Open the door and lift it.
If you can feel play in the hinges,,ie if it moves at all,they will need to be replaced.
Nick.

[Woolwich]

If you can feel play in the hinges,,ie if it moves at all,they will need to be replaced.

Thanks, I can't feel any play at all. I tried the door in all positions and there's no difference. Lifting the door lifts the car.

The door barely touches the bumper as it closes. There are a couple of scratch marks on the highest part only. The door then bangs against the catch - well the lock parts aren't aligned, if you follow my poor description. A slight lift at that point gets the door shut.

Time to get my hands dirty yet?!

Thanks!

[ncooper]

If it's only a slight lift needed,open the door,take hold of the bottom of it at its outside and and give it a good wrench upwards.
My ex-father in law fixed many a car door like that,he was only in the trade for sixty years though.

Could someone have been swinging on it?

Nick.

[street_moto]

With it happening so suddenly it does sound like the door's dropped due to someone swinging/hanging on it or the hinges have given.
I haven't seen a series 2 door assembly, but if it's 'owt like the series 1, then I would give the following a try. Might work, but really it's in the wrong plane of adjustment, but you can't get to the other side of the hinge without taking the doorcard off { don't know if it's adjustable in there anyway?}.:confused:
Open the door fully, mark around the hinges on the doorframe with a pencil, get someone to support it at the lower outer corner, then undo the three bolts holding the top hinge to the car(not a huge amount, so that it's easy to nip up relatively quickly), then undo two of the lower hinge bolts. Then get the person supporting the door to lift it up, may need to get a bit brutal, the top hinge should move in towards the car a liitle, nip up bolts and give the door a try, should have lifted it a bit! If it's got worse or makes no difference, then put back to the original markings.:o
Hope this helps!

Mind, a good heave up as stated above might just do it without getting the socket set out!:D

Regards Dave.

[HarryD]

Did this on a D1 only but could be the same.
As per Street Moto above:
Indeed, remove rear card to gain access to 3 bolts holding bottom long hinge arm to door. (Unlikely to be the hinge end at the post) Slacken off VERY slightly, say quarter turn and with spare wheel off the door( reduces weight considerably) have someone lift door slightly whilst you retighten the bolts. When done and if this clears the bumper, check the position of the keeper / door lock striker on the opposite side to ensure door masonry contacts with it correctly and centrally.
Have you ever pulled away and have the door open suddenly, say on a bend or hill due to not being closed properly? If so, this can be the cause of some panel distortion. If working alone, spare wheel MAY give proper support to door whilst tightening/adjusting (unless you have a lift kit) as it's almost the exact height required.

[willroy]

Td5's rear doors are adjustable ,slacken the bolts on the hinge connected to the car.Their is quite a bit of play to move the door where you want