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Thread: Alarm/immobiliser key fob battery replacement

  1. #1
    Engineer Widget's Avatar
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    Default Alarm/immobiliser key fob battery replacement

    I finally got round to changing the batteries in both key fobs today. The recommendation is to replace them every 3 years, otherwise you have to go through a whole load of kerfuffle to pair the fob back to the car. The instructions in the handbook are not entirely clear and I confused myself a bit by trying to skip read it, but its actually dead simple.

    You'll need:
    • A CR2032 button battery, LR recommend Panasonic.
    • A small screwdriver to separate the two sides of the fob.
    • Your Land Rover!


    1. Sit in the drivers seat with the drivers door closed. Keep it closed for the duration of the battery replacement*.
    2. Turn the ignition to position II, return to position 0 and remove the key.
    3. Gently split the key fob casing into its two parts, taking care not to damage the rubber seal.
    4. Slide the old battery out of the clip, avoid touching the circuit board or other components.
    5. Insert new battery. The manual says don't leave any finger prints on it which can cause premature discharge.
    6. Push the two halves of the fob back together.
    7. Operate the key fob at least 4 times to re-synchronise it with the car.
    8. Turn the ignition back to position II and you're done.


    *The immobiliser has a passive re-arm function which activates within 30 seconds if the drivers door is opened. If you don't open the driver's door this period is extended to 5 minutes.

    If you only have one fob and the immobiliser re-arms during the battery change you have to go through the re-synchronisation rigmarole, which involves turning the key in the ignition numerous times and opening/closing the drivers door repeatedly.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Alarm/immobiliser key fob battery replacement

    I like to know about that "kerfuffle". Is it described anywhere ?
    I waited too long and the battery ran out. After replacing the battery my L322 does not
    recognize remote signals.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Alarm/immobiliser key fob battery replacement

    Hi, did you manage to sort it out? I've had problems with my RR L322 TD6 since this winter. Flashing that "key battery low" some time ago and I changed it (but not with special sync described). Car started intermittently and now completely dead. Cranks but not firing up. Changed glowplugs, filter, etc but no change. New high-end battery.

    >>Can the key immobiliser been deactivated / out of sync? If so how do I fix it?

    Quote Originally Posted by gunnar-L322 View Post
    I like to know about that "kerfuffle". Is it described anywhere ?
    I waited too long and the battery ran out. After replacing the battery my L322 does not
    recognize remote signals.

  4. #4
    Engineer 101Sean's Avatar
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    Default Re: Alarm/immobiliser key fob battery replacement

    The owners handbook covers the procedure for fixing a fob that's gone out of sync due to ignored low battery warning or fluffed battery change. You need to know the EKA code and the sequence of how it's applied by ignition and door lock activation, trouble is most owners give you a blank look when you ask for the EKA code. If you don't know it, you'll have to get it plugged in to interrogate the alarm.
    Sean
    73FL74 101 GS
    2000 110 CSW Blingwagon
    Medway Military Vehicle Group (Ireland rep!)
    www.4xforum.net - All Ireland 4x4 forum

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    Default Re: Alarm/immobiliser key fob battery replacement

    Hello sorry for forgetting about following up earlier;
    I found a description on how to dock remotes that actually worked.
    It is quite similar to how this is done in some jaguars; carry out a certain switch pressing sequence that put the car in programming mode, then repeat a procedure until all remotes are done. Here is the instruction I followed;

    1: Enter the L322 and close doors
    2: Insert key in ignition lock. Turn to Pos II, then back again and remove key all in a sequence without delays,
    Now immediately continue with step 3-6:
    3: Hold key level with your shoulders, a biit towards the left hand side windows so it comes closer to the pickup antenna located in one of the side windows.
    Getting some line-in-sight proximity here seems to yield a more reliable result.

    4: Now keep the Unlock button of the remote pressed. Do not release it.

    5: Still keeping the unlock button pressed, now press THREE TIMES on the bigger LOCK button.
    In other words press DOWN UP DOWN UP DOWN UP on the big lock button while keeping the unlock button pressed.

    6: Now release the UNLOCK button. L322 confirms by locking doors.

    7: Put the key back in the ignition lock, turn to Pos II, turn back and remove key, all in a sequence.

    Done. The docked remotes should now work.

    If you have more than one remote to dock, you repeat steps 3 to 6 for each new remote before going to step 7
    after the final remote.
    Each of the procedures steps 3-6 must be completed within 30 seconds.

    When you have completed the docking sequence for all remotes then any remote that was not included in the docking sequence
    will have become forgotten by the car and is not recognized. So that is a good way of removing the memory of for example a lost remote
    where you do not want to risk that somebody finds it and uses it to enter your car.

    This deals only with the docking of remotes. Adding new ignition keys is a dealer job.

    The original british post that describes this is here:
    http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=34074&p=329131#p329131
    /gunnar Range Rover Vogue LSE 4.2 1993, Sweden

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    Default Re: Alarm/immobiliser key fob battery replacement

    This worked for my particular model year. I have no info on for what other years this method works.

    Typo above; Original post was:
    http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/vie...329131#p329131
    /gunnar Range Rover Vogue LSE 4.2 1993, Sweden

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    Default Re: Alarm/immobiliser key fob battery replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by jlindgren View Post
    Hi, did you manage to sort it out? I've had problems with my RR L322 TD6 since this winter. Flashing that "key battery low" some time ago and I changed it (but not with special sync described). Car started intermittently and now completely dead. Cranks but not firing up. Changed glowplugs, filter, etc but no change. New high-end battery.

    >>Can the key immobiliser been deactivated / out of sync? If so how do I fix it?
    Hi jlindgren, my particular issue is not related to engine start but simply solved a problem when the remote loses power and somehow drops out of the vehicles list of known remotes. Then the procedure listed brought my fob back to being usable again for door entry/door locking. As I understand it losing fob bttery power can only affect the ability to issue remote control commands. Immobiliser/engine start is a different thing that require fault code diagnostics and a visit to people who posess the diag tools. You need to find out if the non-start is due to immobilisation or an engine system issue. If you get access to tools that can retrieve fault codes that probably is a start.
    /gunnar Range Rover Vogue LSE 4.2 1993, Sweden

  8. #8

    Default Re: Alarm/immobiliser key fob battery replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by gunnar-L322 View Post
    Hello sorry for forgetting about following up earlier;
    I found a description on how to dock remotes that actually worked.
    It is quite similar to how this is done in some jaguars; carry out a certain switch pressing sequence that put the car in programming mode, then repeat a procedure until all remotes are done. Here is the instruction I followed;

    1: Enter the L322 and close doors
    2: Insert key in ignition lock. Turn to Pos II, then back again and remove key all in a sequence without delays,
    Now immediately continue with step 3-6:
    3: Hold key level with your shoulders, a biit towards the left hand side windows so it comes closer to the pickup antenna located in one of the side windows.
    Getting some line-in-sight proximity here seems to yield a more reliable result.

    4: Now keep the Unlock button of the remote pressed. Do not release it.

    5: Still keeping the unlock button pressed, now press THREE TIMES on the bigger LOCK button.
    In other words press DOWN UP DOWN UP DOWN UP on the big lock button while keeping the unlock button pressed.

    6: Now release the UNLOCK button. L322 confirms by locking doors.

    7: Put the key back in the ignition lock, turn to Pos II, turn back and remove key, all in a sequence.

    Done. The docked remotes should now work.

    If you have more than one remote to dock, you repeat steps 3 to 6 for each new remote before going to step 7
    after the final remote.
    Each of the procedures steps 3-6 must be completed within 30 seconds.

    When you have completed the docking sequence for all remotes then any remote that was not included in the docking sequence
    will have become forgotten by the car and is not recognized. So that is a good way of removing the memory of for example a lost remote
    where you do not want to risk that somebody finds it and uses it to enter your car.

    This deals only with the docking of remotes. Adding new ignition keys is a dealer job.

    The original british post that describes this is here:
    http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=34074&p=329131#p329131
    Thanks for this,just worked 1st time very easliy on 55 model Vogue 4.4 Petrol-thanks for posting

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