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Thread: Relay location

  1. #1

    Default Relay location

    With some of the recent steering threads being seen, a very common problem with landrover steering is the result of the combined wear and lost motion in the many steering links, ball joints, drop arm splines etc.. Any movement of the steering relay in the chassis will cause dramatic free play at the wheel.
    As the relay should fit tightly in the chassis it needs to be shimmed and tightly pressed into the front chassis xmember. This of course can make future removal of the relay a task.
    When I fitted my new chassis, I found the relay tube in the chassis left a large clearance all round the relay itself. Shimming is rather crude and as I didnt wish to have to press the relay into the chassis I made up a collar that bolts to the 4 1/4 UNF bolt holes on the underside of the chassis, with the base of the relay passing tightly through it.. This elliminates the need to shim, gives an accurate, solid and fixed location for the relay.
    The result is a very pleasent and precise steering, running on 9.00x16 crossplies
    php6yuFOHPM..jpgphpn0SLzLPM2..jpgphpZax0XrPM1..jpgP1040914..jpgphpkIeFQ6PM5..jpg

  2. #2
    Site Admin. Big Sandy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Relay location

    Looks tidy Tony....
    Less of them negative waves Baby.

  3. #3
    Guru Snagger's Avatar
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    Default Re: Relay location

    Mine arrived this morning, Tony, along with the accompanying letter. Thankfully, it arrived before I went to the post office!

    I'll let you know how I get on, but given the movement I have seen on the bottom of the relay with the standard retaining collar, I have high hopes for a significant difference in the tautness of the steering. Given that the only other play or relative movement is in the lateral distortion of the road springs, it should give pretty good steering.

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    Default Re: Relay location

    I fitted mine this afternoon, Tony. I needed to file the inner diameter just a touch (just enough to remove the tool pattern made when it was cut). I also bevelled one of the inner edges to make is slip over the end of the relay more easily. Once filed, it needed to be drifted on with a club hammer, it's so snug. There will be absolutely no movement between the relay and chassis at all.

    To make sure that any water that runs down from the top of the relay and into the chassis cavity can drain away, I filed a semicircular drain hole into the internal circumference at the front position (my 109 sits nose down).

    You can go and cash that cheque, Tony.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Relay location

    Quote Originally Posted by Snagger View Post
    I fitted mine this afternoon, Tony. I needed to file the inner diameter just a touch (just enough to remove the tool pattern made when it was cut). I also bevelled one of the inner edges to make is slip over the end of the relay more easily. Once filed, it needed to be drifted on with a club hammer, it's so snug. There will be absolutely no movement between the relay and chassis at all.

    To make sure that any water that runs down from the top of the relay and into the chassis cavity can drain away, I filed a semicircular drain hole into the internal circumference at the front position (my 109 sits nose down).

    You can go and cash that cheque, Tony.
    Hi Nick, thats good news.
    The collar was a dead tight fit to my relay. I left the cut pattern in place in case you wanted to add bearing fit, but as you said, if it needed to be drifted into place they'll be no room for movement.
    You managed to get the four bolts lined up ok I trust? This was the main difference I was concerned about.
    That was a good idea with the added drain hole.
    Hope you'll find it'll stop all the movement. Can you post some pics?

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    Default Re: Relay location

    I'll post the photos once I have uploaded them.

    The bolt hole positions were fine; the only trouble I had was getting the collar rotationally orientated - once it had been drifted into position, the bolt holes didn't line up with those in the chassis, and trying to turn the collar was difficult because of how tight it is. Two Philips head screw drivers in opposite holes simultaneously levering the collar around worked fine, though.

    There is no way that the relay is going to move now - it has an interference fit on the collar, so it can't even fret and wear.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Relay location

    Here you go. The collar was zinc primed on the top, and then given a thick coat of grease on the top and inner edge before fitting. Once installed, it was well covered with Schutz for protection and to match the chassis.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8

    Default Re: Relay location

    Quote Originally Posted by Snagger View Post
    There is no way that the relay is going to move now - it has an interference fit on the collar, so it can't even fret and wear.
    While the relay will be unable to work, the bolt holes could, over time be eaten into by the threads of the bolts.
    While I tried getting hold of 1/4 UNF bolts with a short plain shank, these were not available in the short lengths required. This is why I suggest using bearing fit, (e.g Loctite stud and bearing fit about 3 a bottle) to help bond the treads over a larger area in the collar. I think it would be a worthwhile move and now you have the bolt holes lined up, you can treat each bolt just under the head where they'll sit in the collar.
    The other area that may start to show signs of movement is on the lower relay arm, this was moving slightly on mine until I used the bearing fit on the splines.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Relay location

    I have had arm/shaft movement before, which was down to the pinch bolt stretching. I replaced both with 12.8 HT bolts to stop that happening again and tighten the bolts as much as I physically can with a normal ratchet and socket (estimated 70-80'lbs). That sorted it out. I also had the same problem on the RRC's PAS drop arm, which was due to the paint on the splines of the new PAS box wearing off; removing the arm, wire brushing the splines and refitting cured that.

    I understand your point about the collar being able to move in relation to the chassis, Tony, but I think it should be OK - the bolts are pretty tight and there should be enough friction between the collar and chassis, even with the grease (to prevent water ingress and corrosion). I'll keep an eye on it, though, and if it does show signs of movement, I'll use some JB Weld metal epoxy on the bolt holes to fill all slack with a permanent and solid cure.

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    Default Re: Relay location

    Hi Tony,

    I found the information about the relay flange I don't know how, but I am very much interested in it. Do you send it to The Netherlands as well? What price is it then? My email is beensadhetnet.nl Thanks a lot!

  11. #11

    Default Re: Relay location

    Im sure Postage to the Netherlands wont be that expensive. Ill send you an Email

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    Default Re: Relay location

    dont have a series, but was interested if you had to drill and tap the 4 holes for the collar into the chassis ? if not what are the holes for originally ?

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    Default Re: Relay location

    Quote Originally Posted by DarrenH View Post
    dont have a series, but was interested if you had to drill and tap the 4 holes for the collar into the chassis ? if not what are the holes for originally ?
    this ring is an upgraded version of the original ring that located the relay...
    1990 90 200TDI : http://forum.landrovernet.com/showth...11#post1758711

    1970 Series 2a 88" diesel

    Series 1 80" rebuild thread : http://forum.landrovernet.com/showth...71#post1696471

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    Default Re: Relay location

    fair do's thanks, it read as a fix for aftermarket chassis

    is the original ring pictured in tonys pictures ?

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    Default Re: Relay location

    Quote Originally Posted by DarrenH View Post
    fair do's thanks, it read as a fix for aftermarket chassis

    is the original ring pictured in tonys pictures ?
    on original chassis', the hole for the relay is small, which after 30 years of filling with water and mud causes the relay to rust in and cause problems. the builders of galv chassis' thought why not make the hole a bit bigger to get around this problem. although, this means the relay doesnt fit so tight meaning it can wobble/move slightly.

    the original retaining ring is about half the thickness of tony's version, and therefore sometimes isnt enough to completely stop slight movements.

    the original ring isnt pictured.
    1990 90 200TDI : http://forum.landrovernet.com/showth...11#post1758711

    1970 Series 2a 88" diesel

    Series 1 80" rebuild thread : http://forum.landrovernet.com/showth...71#post1696471

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