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Thread: 109 brake bleedin problem

  1. #1

    Default 109 brake bleedin problem

    hi LR on SORN, giving it a run road lane, braked and they went soft- had to pump. changed cylinders on passenger side front and rear, as slight leak showing. Set all back up and bleed, seemed ok bt now gone back and soft again. is there a special way of bleeding or might the origional failure been something else?

    Any ideas, suggestions welcolm
    Thanks
    John

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    Apprentice Sanky's Avatar
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    Default Re: 109 brake bleedin problem

    Hi, its always a bit tricky getting the 109 twin leading shoe setup to bleed properly. Try the pressurised easy bleed system.
    Tel

  3. #3

    Default Re: 109 brake bleedin problem

    thanks,
    i have one of those not used it on the landy as the mastercylinder cap is too large for the kit i have. Is there a cap available i can get to make the kit work.

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    Engineer ATO's Avatar
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    Default Re: 109 brake bleedin problem

    Quote Originally Posted by johnmck View Post
    thanks,
    i have one of those not used it on the landy as the mastercylinder cap is too large for the kit i have. Is there a cap available i can get to make the kit work.
    I've never been able to use my eezibleed on the 109 for the same reason, mines a 60mm cap and gunsons don't have one even in the extended cap set.

    After replacing front cylinders they can be hard to bleed properly as the top cylinder seems to retains air. I ended up pushing the top & bottom cylinders back in as far as they would go using a cork and cable tying them up and then bleeding, eventually worked a treat.
    1982 Ex Mod 109 - currently 200TDI powered >>>>>

    www.land-rover.org

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    Default Re: 109 brake bleedin problem

    Quote Originally Posted by ATO View Post
    After replacing front cylinders they can be hard to bleed properly as the top cylinder seems to retains air. I ended up pushing the top & bottom cylinders back in as far as they would go using a cork and cable tying them up and then bleeding, eventually worked a treat.
    Same can be done with a G Clamp. You can also open the bleed nipple push the cylinders in with yuour fingers and then close the bleed nipple and release the cylinder. Repeat a couple of times starting with the top cylinder and then move onto the bottom. Thats how I last did mine!

    It also helps if you adjust the rears all the way on so that there is no movement at the back meaning each mm the pedal moves is pushing fluid oput the front
    Motors : 1980 Series III 109" V8, 2004 Mazda RX-8 (it starts sometimes too)

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    Default Re: 109 brake bleedin problem

    I keep thinking about swapping the pipe run so the bleed niple is on the top cylinder and the pipe from the Mc enters the bottom cylinder. I cant see a reason it wouldnt work as theres enough room on the bottom cylinder for teh pipe. Seems bleeding from teh top cylinder should help the trapped air come out with the brake fluid as I bleed. It would also make it possible to get a rubber tube on teh nipple avoiding brake fluid over teh wheels and up my arm.
    The Easy bleed made little or no odds on our 109 set up just spewed fluid out of the MC cap even at 10psi.

    Cheers

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    Default Re: 109 brake bleedin problem

    Quote Originally Posted by kevingambrell View Post
    I keep thinking about swapping the pipe run so the bleed niple is on the top cylinder and the pipe from the Mc enters the bottom cylinder.
    Cheers
    That's a common trick for 101 owners who have the same brake set up. Works a treat and makes bleeding the brakes simple.

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    Default Re: 109 brake bleedin problem

    But the drillings are on the center line so the air is trapped in the top of both cylinders, hence the G clamp and ezi bleed to shift the air.

  9. #9

    Default Re: 109 brake bleedin problem

    thanks guys sounds like a job for the weekend as will have to take wheels off and drums!!!

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    Default Re: 109 brake bleedin problem

    Quote Originally Posted by CCKW353A1 View Post
    But the drillings are on the center line so the air is trapped in the top of both cylinders, hence the G clamp and ezi bleed to shift the air.
    A hand vacuum pump (maybe that is an Ezi-bleed. I don't know) will take that small bubble out in seconds. Moving the bleed nipple to the upper cylinder means you are dealing with a much smaller bubble than you can potentially have otherwise.

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    Default Re: 109 brake bleedin problem

    Bleedibg 109 brakes is a pain. I have heard stories of people removing backing plate so they could rotatre it to remove air trapped, parking at steep angles, using amazing amounts of brake fluid to try and get all the air out.. In the workshop manuals it clearly states that you must "slacken" of the brake bveing bled. youi must back off the adjusters to minimize the cylinder air pocket. if you have the brake shoes adjuste out the air held by the cylinder will not come out easily. just be sure that you do not accuate the brake shoe when bleeding. re. pumping the pedal with the bleeder closed and moving the wheel cyl. do not agitate the fluid in the can or allow air in by not carefully pouring fluid in master res. this is esspecially true for synthetic brake fluid. hope this helps. I know that some people think pumping the pedal on a 109 is the way it works, but we both know that if you only have one thing that works right on a vehicle it should be the brakes.. bobzinak.

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    Default Re: 109 brake bleedin problem

    You don't need to buy a new Eziblled specific cap for the Ezibleed if you have a spare Land Rover cap - you can drill a hole in the centre of the spare master cylinder cap and fit the ezibleed fitting to it.

    If you know anybody with a pile of old parts of stripped LR's they might have a spare cap to fit your reservoir and drill that. I'm sure the instructions that came with my ezibleed actually suggested this anyway in cases where the supplied caps didn't fit.

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    Default Re: 109 brake bleedin problem

    Quote Originally Posted by MUD4FUN View Post
    You don't need to buy a new Eziblled specific cap for the Ezibleed if you have a spare Land Rover cap - you can drill a hole in the centre of the spare master cylinder cap and fit the ezibleed fitting to it.

    If you know anybody with a pile of old parts of stripped LR's they might have a spare cap to fit your reservoir and drill that. I'm sure the instructions that came with my ezibleed actually suggested this anyway in cases where the supplied caps didn't fit.
    I've been looking for a 60mm cap for the last year, no luck!
    1982 Ex Mod 109 - currently 200TDI powered >>>>>

    www.land-rover.org

  14. #14

    Default Re: 109 brake bleedin problem

    thanks Guys.
    Got it done. The gunson kit worked a bit i used the existing master cap, one i had had a second lid that you could detach. Then drilled hole and used the cap. However once i put pressure on it fluid came out under the cap- could n't get an air seal. I took off the hubs and shoes and put g clamps on the cylinders. i then bleed the brakes by slackening off the bleed screw, and using the gunson without pressue( just little bit at start to pressurise the master and gunson resivour)- this kept the master cyclinder topped up and stopped air being sucked in. I pumped the peddle and then held it down with a metal pole and tightened up the bleed screw. Did it a couple of times and it worked ok.

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    Default Re: 109 brake bleedin problem

    I rebuilt my brakes from scratch so made sure when I (like others have done ^^) made the pipes so the top cylinder was the last part of the system on the front axle. I'd heard a lot of people having trouble bleeding because of air getting stuck, but swapping the pipes round worked a treat for me and bleeding was easy. Doesn't do anything weird to the brakes either, mine pull up very well. Worthwhile mod.

    Brian


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