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Thread: Freelander Timing belt kit

  1. #1

    Default Freelander Timing belt kit

    Hi all i joined a while ago knowing full well i'd need some advice at some point so here goes.
    I own a exdi 2.0 on a w plate (2000) and im wanting to get the timing belt done and do the water pump at the same time,anyway my questions are,

    How do i know which belt to buy,some have more teeth than others,
    What make belt should i buy/avoid?
    and lastly where would you buy from yourself?
    thanks in advance Chambo.

  2. #2
    Freelander Specialist Chaser's Avatar
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    Default Re: Freelander Timing belt kit

    How do i know which belt to buy,some have more teeth than others, Give chassis number to dealer
    What make belt should i avoid? Most definitely anything from Britpart
    and lastly where would you buy from yourself? Genuine dealer part, because failure consequences are high and change interval was decided using these quality parts. Considerably more expensive though.
    thanks in advance Chambo.
    Chaser.
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  3. #3

    Default Re: Freelander Timing belt kit

    Thanks for that chaser,one more thing if i may.Before the heavy snow last winter i had to remove the VC and shafts due to VC damper rubber perishing,anyway when accelerating between 30-40 there is a vibration which was not there with the VC on,It's not got any worse but dont know what it could be,do i just let it be or get it looked at?

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    Engineer Landrover_Tim's Avatar
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    Default Re: Freelander Timing belt kit

    Where abouts are you?
    Land Rover
    onelife.liveit.

  5. #5
    Freelander Specialist Chaser's Avatar
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    Default Re: Freelander Timing belt kit

    front drive shaft, usually the RH one is a common cause of vibration

    many people cut off the vcu damper and run without and it doesn't seem to make a noticeable difference.....
    Chaser.
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    Responses are submitted for discussion and analysis and are not intended to be definitive. Although I do my best I cannot guarantee the accuracy of the information given.

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    Apprentice RRC93's Avatar
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    Default Re: Freelander Timing belt kit

    Hi Chambo, Chaser and all,

    Just noticed your thread and thought I'd ask a question too! (sorry if I'm hi-jacking here...)

    Would I be right in thinking your XEDi engine is the same as the Rover L-series?

    I only ask because I've just replaced the cambelt, injection pump belt, tensioners, idlers, etc. on my other-halfs Rover 220SDi at the weekend. If it's the same as yours, it'll have an automatic tensioner on the cambelt which sets the belt tension with a spring & plunger which presses on the arm of the tensioner pulley. Once fitted, Mr Haynes tells me it's simply a case of tightening the centre bolt and hey presto, the tension is set!

    However, the new cambelt seems to be making a slight 'whirring' noise, which I think generally indicates that it is overtight? It's not excessively loud, but it is there. I've checked the noise is not coming from the auxillary belt tensioner by removing the multi-vee, but no change. I also had the plunger and spring off to clean, lubricate and checked the free length - all ok, and lightly copperslipped the back if the tensioner where it rubs in the block face, just to ensure it would adjust correctly.

    Just wondering whether this is a common problem on this engine, maybe until the new belt has 'settled in' ? Or whether I'm about to get a big explosion!!

    (Or even whether I've just sat and typed all these ramblings out over the last ten minutes, only to find it's a completely different engine..... - sorry!)

    All advice/thoughts greatfully received

    Cheers,

    Paul.

    It's not beige, it's Sandglow ....

    www.blackcatplymouth.co.uk

  7. #7
    Freelander Specialist Chaser's Avatar
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    Default Re: Freelander Timing belt kit

    Yeah same engine as in the freelander......

    I know what you mean, a whine from the belt can be a little disconcerting and I would only be happy if it was very slight.

    It's not something I would say is common to this engine no. First thought is is it a genuine belt as belt construction/material my well have an influence on how quietly they run. I'm assuming that the tensioner spring you checked is the original and therefore giving the correct tension.

    It sounds like you have confidently checked everything you have done, all new parts OK and that the tension is, as set by the spring and hasn't had an additional push (?) so give it a short while to see if it does indeed bed in and reduce the noise. If it doesn't and it is a pattern belt then I suppose the only option would be try a genuine one.
    Chaser.
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    Responses are submitted for discussion and analysis and are not intended to be definitive. Although I do my best I cannot guarantee the accuracy of the information given.

  8. #8
    Consultant biosbill's Avatar
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    Default Re: Freelander Timing belt kit

    Quote Originally Posted by RRC93 View Post
    Hi Chambo, Chaser and all,

    Just noticed your thread and thought I'd ask a question too! (sorry if I'm hi-jacking here...)

    Would I be right in thinking your XEDi engine is the same as the Rover L-series?

    I only ask because I've just replaced the cambelt, injection pump belt, tensioners, idlers, etc. on my other-halfs Rover 220SDi at the weekend. If it's the same as yours, it'll have an automatic tensioner on the cambelt which sets the belt tension with a spring & plunger which presses on the arm of the tensioner pulley. Once fitted, Mr Haynes tells me it's simply a case of tightening the centre bolt and hey presto, the tension is set!

    However, the new cambelt seems to be making a slight 'whirring' noise, which I think generally indicates that it is overtight? It's not excessively loud, but it is there. I've checked the noise is not coming from the auxillary belt tensioner by removing the multi-vee, but no change. I also had the plunger and spring off to clean, lubricate and checked the free length - all ok, and lightly copperslipped the back if the tensioner where it rubs in the block face, just to ensure it would adjust correctly.

    Just wondering whether this is a common problem on this engine, maybe until the new belt has 'settled in' ? Or whether I'm about to get a big explosion!!

    (Or even whether I've just sat and typed all these ramblings out over the last ten minutes, only to find it's a completely different engine..... - sorry!)

    All advice/thoughts greatfully received

    Cheers,

    Paul.
    Ive got a 220SDI as my daily drive.....Im sure ive read somewhere that yes it does have an auto tensioner, but isnt there some kind of spring/ratchet "thing" that automatically tensions the belt? Because im sure ive seen somewhere saying you need a special tool to re-set this when you fit a new belt, but you can just use a screwdriver/coat hanger. Might be worth doing a bit of research, but it rings a bell!

    William
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    Apprentice RRC93's Avatar
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    Default Re: Freelander Timing belt kit

    Thanks for your thoughts chaps .

    Yes, the odd thing is that I changed the belt 70k ago (I didn't replace the tensioner/idler at that time as both were ok). But I can't remember having a noise problem then.

    This time I've renewed both pulleys, cleaned and checked the plunger and spring, lubricated the new tensioner bracket (to ensure the adjustment would be 'silky smooth'....) and yet now I seem to have a possible problem. It just doesn't add up - if anything I did a more thorough job this time ???

    As the tensioner spring is now another 70k old, if anything it should have got weaker, not harder ?? And it was exactly the same part number and make of belt as before (made by Gates, checked old against new when I swapped 'em to ensure it was correct).

    I suppose it's just possible that the tensioner tightened up a bit as I did up the bolt, but it does seem unlikely? After all, the new belt provides a fair bit of pressure to it.

    As far as 'specialist' tools go William, to change both belts all you need are two drill bits (6.5 & 9.5mm) to lock the flywheel & injection pump pulley, and an M6 bolt (approx 2" long) with a nut on it. The bolt gets threaded down through the tensioner spring into the end of the plunger and then you use the nut to wind it back - so releasing the tension on the belt, quite clever really. It also means you don't have to set the tension on the belt (or so I thought...).

    I know many people who seem to feel that Rovers were an inferior product in their time, but this one has now covered over 170k with only minimal repairs and still looks very tidy. Infact, having owned it since 59k, the tensioners & idler that I removed on Saturday would have been the originals yet were still going strong! - Maybe it should wear a Green Oval...

    It's not beige, it's Sandglow ....

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    Consultant biosbill's Avatar
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    Default Re: Freelander Timing belt kit

    Quote Originally Posted by RRC93 View Post
    Thanks for your thoughts chaps .

    Yes, the odd thing is that I changed the belt 70k ago (I didn't replace the tensioner/idler at that time as both were ok). But I can't remember having a noise problem then.

    This time I've renewed both pulleys, cleaned and checked the plunger and spring, lubricated the new tensioner bracket (to ensure the adjustment would be 'silky smooth'....) and yet now I seem to have a possible problem. It just doesn't add up - if anything I did a more thorough job this time ???

    As the tensioner spring is now another 70k old, if anything it should have got weaker, not harder ?? And it was exactly the same part number and make of belt as before (made by Gates, checked old against new when I swapped 'em to ensure it was correct).

    I suppose it's just possible that the tensioner tightened up a bit as I did up the bolt, but it does seem unlikely? After all, the new belt provides a fair bit of pressure to it.

    As far as 'specialist' tools go William, to change both belts all you need are two drill bits (6.5 & 9.5mm) to lock the flywheel & injection pump pulley, and an M6 bolt (approx 2" long) with a nut on it. The bolt gets threaded down through the tensioner spring into the end of the plunger and then you use the nut to wind it back - so releasing the tension on the belt, quite clever really. It also means you don't have to set the tension on the belt (or so I thought...).

    I know many people who seem to feel that Rovers were an inferior product in their time, but this one has now covered over 170k with only minimal repairs and still looks very tidy. Infact, having owned it since 59k, the tensioners & idler that I removed on Saturday would have been the originals yet were still going strong! - Maybe it should wear a Green Oval...
    Tehe, cheers. Mines just coming up to 207,000 and its still just as its always been, even when ive got the trailer on!

    William
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  11. #11
    Apprentice RRC93's Avatar
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    Default Re: Freelander Timing belt kit

    .... and I thought we were doing well at 170,000 !! Looks like you could be up for the quarter-million mark soon then, William . I tend to think at that mileage it's fair to say a car doesn't owe you anything...

    Going back to your original post Chambo (sorry again about stealing your thread ), you mention you want to change the water pump? Is yours leaking or noisey?

    Reason I ask is that in my experience most engines drive the water pump from the cambelt, so it is common garage practice to change both at the same time and so eliminate any possible pump bearing failure at a later date caused from the revised tension of the new belt (anyone remember the Vauxhall 1.6D of the early '80's with the 'twist tensioning' water pumps...???).

    However, if the set up on the Freelander is again, same as the Rover, then the water pump is driven from behind the PAS pump which is in turn driven by the auxillary belt (or Multi-vee belt), not the cambelt.

    The two pumps are connected by a 'dog-tooth' arrangement (I think that's what it's called ?) so the pumps are locked together when fitted and this design means the PAS pump takes all the lateral load from the aux belt, leaving your water pump bearings to last forever.... Incidentally, I changed our PAS pump at around 120,000 miles due to worn bearings but the water pump behind was still like new.

    So it's just a thought, but you may not need to change the water pump after all (saving you time, money and the risk of further skinned knuckles ).

    Cheers,

    Paul.

    It's not beige, it's Sandglow ....

    www.blackcatplymouth.co.uk

  12. #12

    Default Re: Freelander Timing belt kit

    Hi Guys.
    I have a question about with the Process to change the Timing belt on my KV6 (freelander 2.5). I don't know which of the points I must use to align the back bands, the crankshft and front belt, the point in V on the gear of the crankshaft or th "SAFE" mark. Someone Can Help me?

    Thanks

    Jim Vargas

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    Default Re: Freelander Timing belt kit

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Vargas View Post
    Hi Guys.
    I have a question about with the Process to change the Timing belt on my KV6 (freelander 2.5). I don't know which of the points I must use to align the back bands, the crankshft and front belt, the point in V on the gear of the crankshaft or th "SAFE" mark. Someone Can Help me?

    Thanks
    Jim Vargas
    Jim
    First and foremost you need special tools to lock the front cam wheels since there are NO front marks on cam wheels or the case/covers
    The front crank pulley viscous runner has a mark for "safe" so does the crank wheel but it must not be relied upon. The foward face of the flywheel housing has a 10mm hole to push a lock pin into the flywheel --it can be found by looking up aft of the bumper/radiator core support structure.
    Onced positioned with the pin in the lock hole the crank is in safe and ready to accept new belts.
    The next step is to remove the rear covers and expose the rear belts. The only alignment marks on the engine can be found here and they must for ease of install be facing each other on BOTH banks. If they are 180 degrees out remove the lock pin and special tools and roll the engine over a full turn which should bring them together (if the timing hasn't jumped!_

    Re-install the lock pin and special tools.
    Remove the front belt first replacing the tensioner , tensioner, idler, and water pump.
    Once installed and tensioned, remove the tools and roll the engine through 360 to check for correct timing, this can be verified by bringing the crank back to safe and installing the special tools again. I do this at least once to check my work.
    Onced satisfied and with the engine locked I replace the back belts one at a time maintaining the mark alignments.
    Always make sure the cam wheels fixng bolts correctly torqued by using new bolts for the rear. Equally the crank pulley has this nub and dent feature to locate the wheels. If the bolts are not tight the pullies can "walk" out, losing the timing and in some cases wrecking the engine!
    This engione has precise timing and any mis-timing often results in valve clash with expensive results--so beware! In other words there is no room for carelessness
    Dennis
    zedcars

  14. #14

    Default Re: Freelander Timing belt kit

    Thanks for the instructions, Dennis.

    I am going to try to follow the instructions and change the frontal band. My real problem was the hydraulic tensor, already change the water pump and ball bearing tensor I was lacking the alignment, I have the timing tools set, and I used.

    Regards.

    Jim Vargas

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    Default Re: Freelander Timing belt kit

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Vargas View Post
    Thanks for the instructions, Dennis.

    I am going to try to follow the instructions and change the frontal band. My real problem was the hydraulic tensor, already change the water pump and ball bearing tensor I was lacking the alignment, I have the timing tools set, and I used.

    Regards.

    Jim Vargas
    Jim what is the problem with the hydraulic tensioner?
    Dennis
    zedcars

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