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Thread: Disc & Pad change - a problem...

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    Default Disc & Pad change - a problem...

    OK - the current situation:
    1. Pistons are fully back in the calipers;
    2. New Disc is on;
    3. But, the new pads are too "thick" to fit in the calipers as the disc is in the way.
    I'm guessing it's the combination of new disc with no wear and new pads with no wear. So is the fix as simple as grinding the pad material down about a mil on each side so they will slide in?? Seems a bit of a waste, but if that's the only solution...
    Any ideas / comments ?

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    Disco 1 TDi specialist zollaf's Avatar
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    Default Re: Disc & Pad change - a problem...

    presuming its a disco 1 with 4 pot calipers, are the pistons fully back, i.e. is the pad almost flush with the caliper. did the pistons push back easy or did they need to be forced. and no, best not to go grinding pads as something is wrong, so best to rectify the problem before you start bodging things. should be a good 5 mm clearance anyway. not fitted vented discs have you ?
    currently between landrovers, just a scabby old audi with 359,000 miles under it.

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    Default Re: Disc & Pad change - a problem...

    Yes. Disco One. Standard disc. Caliper pistons pushed back with correct tool, filler cap removed, bleed nipple loosened to allow for any hydraulic lock. So almost 100% certain they are as far back as possible. But pads still won't fit by about an estimated 1 MM each side.
    Can't think of anything else other than to file them down a bit?!

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    Default Re: Disc & Pad change - a problem...

    are the pistons back in so they dont actually protrude form the caliper at all ?
    currently between landrovers, just a scabby old audi with 359,000 miles under it.

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    Default Re: Disc & Pad change - a problem...

    Just about flush. Maybe a slight lip outside... Rears BTW...

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    Default Re: Disc & Pad change - a problem...

    what make pads. ?
    is it the pistons stopping them going in.. could be a bit rusty and not sitting fully home.
    currently between landrovers, just a scabby old audi with 359,000 miles under it.

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    Default Re: Disc & Pad change - a problem...

    Looks like u have the wrong pads, with the pistons pushed fully back the pad should drop straight in and pull out the same way assuming the pad guide has any carbon removed and is clean

    What was discription did the pads have, as there's two types of caliper for the D1, and take it the pad aren't genuine or something lik EDC pads which are just as good and drop straight in.




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    Default Re: Disc & Pad change - a problem...

    The pad profiles are the same as the ones I took out. They are "Delphi". Used a proper tool to wind the pistons back in...

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    Default Re: Disc & Pad change - a problem...

    I've never used the proper tool, tyre lever or large screw driver does me, no pressure required just a means of pushing the pistons back and flush or even very slightly below flush and pad just push in. Delphi are a good brand I have a box of Delphi pads on the shelf waiting to be fitted one day on the back.
    1997 Discovery ES V8
    Previously for 10 years: 1987 Range Rover Vogue Efi auto.
    Previously for 2 years 1985 TVR 350i manual.

    USE LOGIC ON DIFFICULT JOBS - Get someone else to do it.

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    Default Re: Disc & Pad change - a problem...

    Fairly sure the only difference between the wider callipers (fitted with a spacer) is that they use vented discs. As long as the discs are the same style as you removed then most likely the pistons are not fully wound back. Delphi pads in my experience are usually a very goodfitand rarely require deburing on the edges.

    In cases where I can't get the piston back easily, I pump them back out (using old pads to stop the pistons falling out) and ensure the piston surface is spotless and free of rust. Push back and repeat until you can get them all the way back. As others have suggested, you should not have to modify pads/discs to get them too fit.
    Motors : 1980 Series III 109" V8, 2001 Mercedes E320Cdi.. I'm getting old and lazy

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    Default Re: Disc & Pad change - a problem...

    Yes, that was why I posted, as it seemed "wrong"!! Initially I used a nice big mercedes sprinter tyre lever to push them back. When I couldn't get the pads in I bought the "correct" tool on E Bay, and wound them back using this - but it didn't seem to make a lot of difference. I will shove some wood in tomorrow so the pistons can't go too far and give them a bloody good clean before trying again. Funny how what should be a simple job always seems to turn into a marathon. If that doesn't work, then I'll get the grinder out!!!

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    Default Re: Disc & Pad change - a problem...

    Quote Originally Posted by Fran View Post
    Funny how what should be a simple job always seems to turn into a marathon. !
    It is a Land Rover, you will get used to it. If its any help it took me like 6 hours to do discs and pads all round on a defender at the end of last year... That turned into new bearings and a drive flange and a caliper..
    Motors : 1980 Series III 109" V8, 2001 Mercedes E320Cdi.. I'm getting old and lazy

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    Default Re: Disc & Pad change - a problem...

    if the pistons require too much effort to push back then its best to replace the pistons or better still fit a new caliper. the pistons rust, but rust also gets in behind the main seal in the caliper body and means yopu have to give it a good clean out with a rotary wire brush in a dremel. new caliper, the aftermarket britpart ones are fine and cheap enough to mean its pointless even bothering with 20 year old rusted up caliper.
    currently between landrovers, just a scabby old audi with 359,000 miles under it.

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    Default Re: Disc & Pad change - a problem...

    maybe the discs are off spec, where did you get them?

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    Default Re: Disc & Pad change - a problem...

    The discs are Britpart - I am very careful with them as a supplier as the part quality can be patchy, particularly when rubber is involved. However, the discs look well made. I think it is pistons corrosion causing the problem. My debate now is whether to rebuild the Lockheeds with stainless pistons and new seals or to buy the really cheap Britpart calipers at approx 35 each. Or even buy the Britpart calipers and put stainless pistons in them for long term reliability...

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