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Thread: Ignition barrel replacement in series 3 1976

  1. #1

    Default Ignition barrel replacement in series 3 1976

    I have a petrol 2.25 series 3. The ignition barrell keeps sticking and I ma trying to replace it. Craddocks said no 24G1345L available now so substitute with another part. I have two problems:

    1. Cannot get the barrel out. There appear to be not one, but two small holes on the SIDE of the ignition block (steering wheel side) and neither seem to do anything when pushed: no give at all. The substitue barrel has one pin at the bottom. Part number 395141 although appears way too small in diameter.

    2. If it doesn't fit and I manage to get the ********* thing out, where do I buy a replacement?
    Two questions you will ask: does it have a steering lock and is it the original ignition block? No and NO. The ignition key is one of the plastic headed later type not the original metal only key so suspect (like everything else) it has been modified.
    Any ideas or help would be grateful. The full replacement assembly is about 160 + and don't want to spend that much. for a silly bit of metal. Thank you.

  2. #2
    Consultant Richie_asg1's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ignition barrel replacement in series 3 1976

    It is normal to put key in and turn to position 1 to be able to press the release pin. Try that first. when you take the barrel out (on the end of the key so the discs don't fly out) look for wear in the barrel as radial scratches and the discs on the key being higher than the barrel diameter. The simple fix is to file them down so they don't bind anymore. the better fix is to take key and barrel to locksmith and get them to make a new key to code which will be the original size again. I used to do this a lot but I didn't like doing it because of cheap french lock barrels that are mostly plastic, so even the original keys don't work properly!

  3. #3

    Default Re: Ignition barrel replacement in series 3 1976

    Thank you for the advice after I have released the barrel. the trouble is that I cannot release it to inspect. There is not a pin hole evident only two holes on the side which do not appear to have any give in them and appear like two filled rivet holes. Are these the pin holes ? If so they are not inline with the barrel.

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    Consultant Richie_asg1's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ignition barrel replacement in series 3 1976

    If you are talking about the two bolts that hold the the barrel assembly onto the steering column - they are shear bolts, and hold the U shaped alloy clamp on. If you need to remove these then you need to drill them out and use an extractor to unscrew them. New ones are available, and the heads snap off when tight.
    There should be a small hole in the outside of the key barrel that is in line with about a 1/4" past the end of the length of the key. not on the column itself.

    These are the new bolts prior to fitting -


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    Default Re: Ignition barrel replacement in series 3 1976

    I seem to recall the small hole to relases the lock barrel pushes a spung button in. You press it in then pull the key in pos1 but if you press too hard you can't pull it out.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Ignition barrel replacement in series 3 1976

    Richie, Thank you this is exactly what I have on my Landy.
    No I don't mean the two bolts understood about shearing them off. I will have a look again in the daylight tomorrow and see if I can see this elusive hole. There is no sign of it in your picture and understand exactly where you mean that it should be located but can't seem to find it. The two holes I was referring to are those in your picture just before the casting rises to meet the choke aperture you can see them in the first flat bit of the grey aluminium casing. lower down as you suggest.
    Again thank you for your help and the photo, much appreciated.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Ignition barrel replacement in series 3 1976

    Ritchie,
    Have just looked again with a powerful torch. DEFINITELY no holes other than the two shown uppermost in your picture: could it be one of these?

  8. #8
    Consultant Richie_asg1's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ignition barrel replacement in series 3 1976

    Ahh. Could be a little bit harder then. The pins you can see are probably drive pins to hold the external steel barrel in the alloy casting. It may be possible to access the inner barrel when these are removed but it's more involved. If there is a spare or replacement barrel you can work out the correct position you need to drill to intercept the retaining pin and remove the barrel that way, but is getting into locksmith territory to repair afterwards and make good. You may be better drilling out the two mounting bolts and taking the whole thing along to a locksmith for a key to code, and possibly making to fit it properly. (We can compensate for wear when making the key). We used to charge about 8 for a key to code, maybe a bit more for a plastic head because the blanks are more. If you want it cheap then ask for a plain steel blank to code, then ask for a plastic head as a copy of that. Some Locksmiths would charge you 2x keys to code -even though one was just a copy of the first.

    If you don't know anywhere local, send it with a letter to NW Keys Link as Nikki and the crew are friends. They are not just locksmiths, but supply other locksmiths with everything.
    I could probably do it myself as I think I still have some blanks, but would have to be cut by hand the old way as I don't have the depth and spacing info.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Ignition barrel replacement in series 3 1976

    Thank you at least it makes me feel better and I am not going completley mad! OK the next time it jams irreparably I will do that. Still on the hammer and WD40 mode but getting more regular in its failure to turn. Thanks for all your help.

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