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Thread: Signs of IRD failure

  1. #1

    Default Signs of IRD failure

    This Freelander has a groaning noise from underneath. It`s not related to engine speed but is related to wheel speed. Not affected by whether in neutral or clutch engaged or not engaged. Doesn`t seem to be related to wheel bearing. I emptied the oil out of the IRD and it was quite gunky. Lots of swarf on the drain plug. New oil seems to have made the noise worse.
    I think the IRD is failing any suggestions.

  2. #2
    Defender of the Forum. TEMPL4R's Avatar
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    Default Re: Signs of IRD failure

    The VC is Seizing or has Failed. Take the propshafts and VC off. That might give you a bit more time before the IRD blows. Put a tin of Molybdenum Disulphide ( Molyslip) in, it won't cure anything, but can slow the wear down a bit.

    You're looking at about 1100 + Vat for parts. plus fitting.

    Chris
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    Question Re: Signs of IRD failure

    Not being an Englisman, I need to know what the IRD stands for.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Signs of IRD failure

    Intermediate Reduction Drive. It transfers torque from the gearbox to the driveshafts and prop shaft.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Signs of IRD failure

    I have a freelander 2001, I've noticed when I drive in 3, 4 or 5th gear if my rpm is just below 2000rpm and accelerate I hear a rattling noise. Any chance this the same as the issue above?

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    Default Re: Signs of IRD failure

    Quote Originally Posted by traveller
    Intermediate Reduction Drive. It transfers torque from the gearbox to the driveshafts and prop shaft.
    It also has a reduction gear shaft, so the front wheels drive slightly faster than the rears. (This is where the problem lies, with VC/IRD/Rear Diff problems.)The front diff sends the drive back through the IRD input shaft, to the near side front drive shaft and out to the offside. Then off the reduction shaft, drives a bevel gear set, which turns the drive through 90 degrees, to the propshaft. It is quite a complex gear box.

    Chris
    ........Such are they, whom God chooses for Himself, and gathers from the furthest ends of the Earth, servants from among the bravest, in Israel, to guard watchfully and faithfully, His sepulchre and the Temple of Solomon, sword in hand, ready for battle.
    YCHJCYA2PDTHFH and PhD Hons Drvl Cleckheaton and Grand Master of the Forum Lodge of Enlightenment

    Everyone is entitled to their opinion, the trouble is, yours is ridiculous.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Signs of IRD failure

    Just to let templar know that the repair is going well. I have the driveshaft off which I thought would be harder. The rest should be easier tomorow. IRD arrives from Ashworth tomorrow and I`ll get a new VCU on at the weekend.

    For Amit. the noise is more of a groaning noise or rumbling. Worse at low speeds when stopping e.g. I realised it was the IRD when Templar told me and also the oil is filthy and lots of swarf on the drain plug. The main gearbox oil when I drained it was clean and no swarf.

    The car is used to tow quite heavy horses and has done 60k miles. so it`s not surprising the IRD is trashed.
    I don`t thoink from what you say its is the IRD though check with Templar. I know nothing.

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    Default Re: Signs of IRD failure

    Quote Originally Posted by amitkpatel
    I have a freelander 2001, I've noticed when I drive in 3, 4 or 5th gear if my rpm is just below 2000rpm and accelerate I hear a rattling noise. Any chance this the same as the issue above?
    That sounds like the engine is "Pinking". Try changing gear with the revs a bit higher.

    Chris
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    Everyone is entitled to their opinion, the trouble is, yours is ridiculous.

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    Default Re: Signs of IRD failure

    One of the hardest parts is getting the cooler pipes off ( for me it is, I have big hands, I can't get them round the top very easily)

    When you've taken the bracket off the drivers side of the IRD,( all of it, even the bits on the engine) and the 4 bolts that hold it to the gearbox, it needs to move back about 4" for the input shaft to clear the gearbox. Then push the IRD up and back, then twist it so the propshaft flange comes down. Then pull it down. You will need to take the bottom tie rod/steady off the engine so that it can twist and swing forward. They recommend taking the subframe off, but you can get it past.

    Chris
    ........Such are they, whom God chooses for Himself, and gathers from the furthest ends of the Earth, servants from among the bravest, in Israel, to guard watchfully and faithfully, His sepulchre and the Temple of Solomon, sword in hand, ready for battle.
    YCHJCYA2PDTHFH and PhD Hons Drvl Cleckheaton and Grand Master of the Forum Lodge of Enlightenment

    Everyone is entitled to their opinion, the trouble is, yours is ridiculous.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Signs of IRD failure

    Quote Originally Posted by traveller
    the noise is more of a groaning noise or rumbling. Worse at low speeds when stopping e.g.
    I never had swarfs, my oil is always clear brown without metals on it and everyone here is telling me that my IRD is ok but im still getting this noise most at low speed and when stopping.
    Is that noise similar with tyre noise?

  11. #11

    Default Re: Signs of IRD failure

    im getting that rattle aswell only since i removed the propshaft iny ideas are welcome as to a posible resolve
    ONE LIFE LIVE IT
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  12. #12

    Default Re: Signs of IRD failure

    Changing the IRD at home is very difficult withoiut removing the subframe.
    I wished I had removed the subframe. The IRD tends to jam between the engine and a bracket on the subframe. It took hours to get it out and back in.

    The noise from the worn IRD was worse on slowing down and stopping. It`s difficult to describe a noise. Low pitched groaning just as you would expect from a worn bearing. It wasn`t present at speeds over 50mph.

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    Default Re: Signs of IRD failure

    Quote Originally Posted by traveller
    Changing the IRD at home is very difficult withoiut removing the subframe.
    I wished I had removed the subframe. The IRD tends to jam between the engine and a bracket on the subframe. It took hours to get it out and back in.
    They do advise that it is removed. But we never have.
    Did you take the tie rod off? You move the engine forward and put a block of wood in. Then push the IRD up and back, then twist it down, so the output flange clears the bracket.

    We use ramps, so it is much easier.

    Chris
    ........Such are they, whom God chooses for Himself, and gathers from the furthest ends of the Earth, servants from among the bravest, in Israel, to guard watchfully and faithfully, His sepulchre and the Temple of Solomon, sword in hand, ready for battle.
    YCHJCYA2PDTHFH and PhD Hons Drvl Cleckheaton and Grand Master of the Forum Lodge of Enlightenment

    Everyone is entitled to their opinion, the trouble is, yours is ridiculous.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Signs of IRD failure

    Yes I took the tie rod off and the ird/engine bracket.

    The problem was the IRD is heavy(60lbs) and its difficult to push it up and waggle it around to get it in. If I had used some lifting gear it would have been easier. I porbbaly didn`t put it in right. I tied a rope to the pinion to hoist it up a bit and it may have been easier had I lifted the body of the ird up first.

    I didn`t think I was going to get it in at all at one point and suddenly the pinion cleared the steering track rods and dropped down.

    I like things to be predictable and not dependent on chance so I might have preferred to get the subframe off. It doesn`t sem a big job.

    Hopefully I`ll never have to do it again.

    I tested the VCU and I was able to rotate the rear wheel. It didn`t show any signs of getting hot. Do you think I ought to renew it anyway or see how it goes.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Signs of IRD failure

    I was interested to hear you have trouble getting the coolant pipes off as you cant get your hands round the top.
    I`m quite small and it was easy to jump up on th engine lean over and get then off from above. You have to be careful not to snag on the bonnet stay catch and break it.

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