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Thread: Crankshaft seal guide

  1. #1

    Default Crankshaft seal guide

    Where can I get one?

    Its a guide that ensure the seal does not get damaged when you replace the rear seal on the crank. Old Part Numer 18G 1344, I have tried LR but with no joy.

    Oh and I replaced the seal 7 weeks ago and its now leaking badly. Did everything to the book when I fitted it, so I can only assume it has got damaged.

    I'll have to drop the box and trans again

    Is there another way of fitting it so it does not get damaged?

    Thanks
    Stubie
    Should Have Tried Harder At School

  2. #2
    Consultant ROB 110 HICAP's Avatar
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    Default Re: Crankshaft seal guide

    Bum, I did mine recently.....twice!
    Yup there is a guide. It is a white plastic ring stuck in the middle of the seal on the rubber lip. The first one I did was with a £5 Paddocks one. I screwed it up totally by fitting it to the backplate first (engine was apart for conversion) and pushed that with the seal in it over the crank, so couldn't use the plastic ring anyway, plus I put grease round the crank. THIS IS VERY WRONG! It leaked straightaway.

    So number 2 was a genuine seal from LR dealer at £20, its the same as the £5 one but has DOWTY stamped on it, also with the plastic ring, better quality who knows?

    Anyway I asked the LR technician how to do it and he said clean crank and don't put anything on it as the seal lip is pre-lubed. The green paint on the seal ring helps hold it in so make sure its clean on the backplate. Then leaving the plastic ring on the seal, pop that onto the crank (plastic ring holds it in place) and push it in using evenly. The plastic ring pops off after a while. I used the old seal to push/tap it evenly home. I was really nervous the 2nd time as I knew the consequence!

    Tip: measure the depth of the old seal before removing to make sure you push it deep enough.

    Where did you get the seal from, as I guess should have had a plastic ring? I think I kept the one I had, so could look round the gargae for it and post it, if your new seal doesn't come with the ring.
    Also its easier to take the engine forward than dropping box, can you borrow an engine crane?
    HTH
    'The impossible overcome, miracles take a little longer'

    Mazda B2500 double cab, Hyundai Tucson TD auto
    CCM R30 supermoto
    CCM 404 DS
    16.2h bay gelding & 15h bay mare

    Previously owned:
    SIII 109" HICAP petrol
    110 HICAP with Disco 200tdi fitted by me/Ben
    Jeep Cherokee's 4.0 lpg & TD

  3. #3

    Default Re: Crankshaft seal guide

    Thanks ROB 110 HICAP, thats good advice.

    So where did I go wrong.

    1. Remove that round plastic ring and throw it away. Who needs that!

    2. Put a little grease around the crank before fitting the seal so that it just slips on nicely.

    I'll be dropping the box using a crane as the floors come out easily (new screws etc ) and all the other nuts and bolts have been replaced. No angle grinder needed this time.

    The last seal came from Paddocks....looked the same as the original.

    Thanks
    Stubie
    Should Have Tried Harder At School

  4. #4
    Consultant ROB 110 HICAP's Avatar
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    Default Re: Crankshaft seal guide

    Sorted, at least its not just me!
    'The impossible overcome, miracles take a little longer'

    Mazda B2500 double cab, Hyundai Tucson TD auto
    CCM R30 supermoto
    CCM 404 DS
    16.2h bay gelding & 15h bay mare

    Previously owned:
    SIII 109" HICAP petrol
    110 HICAP with Disco 200tdi fitted by me/Ben
    Jeep Cherokee's 4.0 lpg & TD

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