Drivetrain play

solemnwarning · 3rd Nov 2009, 19:13

After hearing a strange thumping sound while driving on the motorway today, I finally checked my drivetrain properly. OHGODWHYDIDNTIDOTHISEARLIER

Rear diff has 1/8th turn play at the propshaft, UJs are ok
Front diff has 3/8ths turn play at the propshaft, UJ at the transfer box end is literally HANGING in there. I can wiggle it around a hell of a lot.

I suppose this explains the odd unexplained noises I've head while driving. Which UJ do I need to order for a 1970 88" and is fitting them yourself doable?

Thanks

CCKW353A1 · 3rd Nov 2009, 19:19

RTC3346 is what i would expect to need. Fitting UJ's is a DIY job, but i suggest reading the manual on how to change them.

solemnwarning · 3rd Nov 2009, 19:31

According to the manual I need to jack the front end up and put axle stands under the chassis..... I don't think mine are tall enough though. Is it possible to get the propshaft out with the front end on the ground, or lifted up slightly?

Is it worth changing both UJs while I've got the propshaft off, or is it an awkward job?

kstrutt1 · 3rd Nov 2009, 19:51

There should be enough height to get at it from under the car but you will need to lift one front wheel off the ground to enable you to turn the shaft and get to all the bolts.

Kevin

nickjaxe · 3rd Nov 2009, 19:55

I would think I could do it on mine even better drive it up onto a wheel or similar to give a bit more room, A good tall pair of stands are a must really for a Landrover owner.

Nick.

timbott · 3rd Nov 2009, 19:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by solemnwarning

Is it worth changing both UJs while I've got the propshaft off, or is it an awkward job?

No It's not a bad job really and if one end is gone the other is sure to follow shortly. Do 'em both.

cheers, Tim

secondjeremy · 3rd Nov 2009, 19:57

The reason for jacking up the chassis is to enable you to get access and to turn the wheel so that you can get at the bolts in turn. You may be able to park it on a kerb or similar to improve access.

Removing the bolts is not fun. They should be 3/8 UNF bolts with locking nuts and will have been done up tight in the first place and corroded now. The shape of the shaft makes access to them difficult and you will only be able to reach 1 or 2 at a time. 1/2 inch sockets generally won't fit. There is a special tool sold by many specialist suppliers but I use a 3/8 in drive socket with a short extension bar then a converter and an 18in breaker bar.

This sounds like overkill but enables me to apply considerable force without damaging my hands when the thing comes undone.

For the front shaft its probably easier to undo the axle end first then the gearbox end.

The handbrake end of the rear ones are best done from above.

The joints themselves will be fun to remove if they've been in for many years. Clean the holes in the yolks very thoroughly so that there is nothing to restrain the cups. Full instructions for joint replacement are in Haynes and the workshop manual. A good vice will make the job easier.

Landrover_Tim · 3rd Nov 2009, 19:58

While you have the prop shaft off, I would do both ends. Its a pretty easy job if you have a vice.

Landrover_Tim · 3rd Nov 2009, 20:02

another thing, when you have put the new UJ in, you may find it stiff to move by hand, if you tap the yoke with a hammer that seats the needle roller bearings nicely and then you should be able to move the joint.

solemnwarning · 3rd Nov 2009, 20:03

There's a vice in the back shed (mum will be happy about me bringing a propshaft through the house

), I just looked underneath and the nuts at the gearbox end look new, which is quite likely since I just had the clutch replaced.

EDIT: Is there a torque setting I should use for the propshaft nuts, or just "tight"?

EDIT2: I'm assuming this is the correct tool for a series propshaft?

biosbill · 3rd Nov 2009, 20:08

Alternatively to all the "oh thats hard" and "oh you need a special tool"..(although some say otherwise thankfully

!)

I did both my propshafts (removed and painted, didnt need UJ's) with a standard snap-on 3/8" extension bar and 9/16" sockets with a ring spanner.... Easy, just rotate the propshaft till you can the spanner/socket in. I cant remember needing to remove a wheel to turn it round, but I must have done I guess!

Wasnt hard at all though, didnt even need the £14+ tool!

William

solemnwarning · 3rd Nov 2009, 20:10

I don't have any big imperial sockets yet, just a chunky 1/2" drive metric set and a tiny 1/4" set with imperial and metric bits.

Landrover_Tim · 3rd Nov 2009, 20:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by solemnwarning

There's a vice in the back shed (mum will be happy about me bringing a propshaft through the house

), I just looked underneath and the nuts at the gearbox end look new, which is quite likely since I just had the clutch replaced.

EDIT: Is there a torque setting I should use for the propshaft nuts, or just "tight"?

EDIT2: I'm assuming this is the correct tool for a series propshaft?

you will find that you can do it with normal spanners